
We bought our first xr. Autox/street machine in the making.
-
catapultkid
- Level 5

- Posts: 521
- Joined: Thu Apr 26, 2012 8:04 am
- Location: Richmond, VA
Re: We bought our first xr. Autox/street machine in the maki
You can kinda see the flap here.


-Paul
'85 Merkur XR4Ti
K20, VW mk2
'89 K2500, 6.0 swap
'00 Honda Insight
'85 Merkur XR4Ti
K20, VW mk2
'89 K2500, 6.0 swap
'00 Honda Insight
-
hEaT
- Level 7

- Posts: 3902
- Joined: Mon May 07, 2007 10:12 pm
- Location: USA
Re: We bought our first xr. Autox/street machine in the maki
X2. This is the same design as the original undercar lip which sat on the crossmember. It helped pull air from the grill area, through the radiator and then out the bottom of the car.Ed Lijewski wrote:Seems to me there's no scooping going on there, rather the air dam helps to pull air downward through the IC.
YMMV
-
catapultkid
- Level 5

- Posts: 521
- Joined: Thu Apr 26, 2012 8:04 am
- Location: Richmond, VA
Re: We bought our first xr. Autox/street machine in the maki
If I get sometime I'll throw some ribbons on there, drive and film it to see. I'm curious now as well. Either way, it works
-Paul
'85 Merkur XR4Ti
K20, VW mk2
'89 K2500, 6.0 swap
'00 Honda Insight
'85 Merkur XR4Ti
K20, VW mk2
'89 K2500, 6.0 swap
'00 Honda Insight
-
Esteban
- Level 7

- Posts: 1980
- Joined: Wed Mar 24, 2010 2:07 am
- Location: San Diego
Re: We bought our first xr. Autox/street machine in the maki
Yeah. I think your IC is getting all the hot air from the radiator with that setup .As others have said, the factory flap under the steering rack is to help PULL air from engine bay downwards. You may think the cold side of the IC is cool to the touch, but with my FMIC, its ice cold even on a 60* night. You may be cooling the air charge but not as cold as it can get with it facing forwards.
Your setup only works if you've got the hood vents. Are you logging IATs along with boost? I hope this wasnt the cause of you running lean and popping the HG (along with your lose MAP hose)
Your setup only works if you've got the hood vents. Are you logging IATs along with boost? I hope this wasnt the cause of you running lean and popping the HG (along with your lose MAP hose)
-
Ed Lijewski
- Level 8
- Posts: 8921
- Joined: Thu Sep 04, 2003 5:53 pm
- Location: The Belly of The Beast
Re: We bought our first xr. Autox/street machine in the maki
No; the flap creates a low pressure area in front of it drawing air from the above/below the front bumper openings. Engine bay air flows down/out below the body.
YMMV
YMMV
Descartes: "Cogito Ergo Sum"
Lijewski: "Sum Ergo Drive-O. Mucho!
Lijewski: "Sum Ergo Drive-O. Mucho!
-
John Brennan
- Level 8
- Posts: 11630
- Joined: Wed Jun 18, 2003 4:19 pm
- Location: Scottsdale, AZ "Summer Is Coming"
Re: We bought our first xr. Autox/street machine in the maki
It's getting some, and is known to work OK, but it will likely be contaminated to some extent by radiator air, whilst not getting as much air as a proper front mount-- plus the air closest to the pavement is significantly hotter than air a foot or two above, and it's much more vulnerable to road debris, curbs, driveways, and the like. A smaller IC, more advantageously mounted, would likely out-perform it.
This is my car, and these are my people!
2015 Fiesta ST
2020 Edge 2.0 Ecoboost
2015 Fiesta ST
2020 Edge 2.0 Ecoboost
-
Ed Lijewski
- Level 8
- Posts: 8921
- Joined: Thu Sep 04, 2003 5:53 pm
- Location: The Belly of The Beast
Re: We bought our first xr. Autox/street machine in the maki
Lotsa hot air generated around here (^ ^). :'( "Contaminated"; wtf? Deserves to be reported to the CDC if so. And then properly um sequestered...in the interest of public health. Logically it's most likely that air drawn to the IC there draws principally from a lower bumper opening. (Bernoulli would concur...). Unless road debris, gravel, etc. now can levitate in fear BEFORE advancing vehicles pass over them, Catapult Kid need not be apprehensive. Certainly no more than if running an FMIC, facing directly and largely exposed to said mutated debris-gravel with ability to levitate on cue. And, an FMIC is far more imperiled, empirically rather than hypothetically, to front end damage from other vehicles slapping the front end of the car it's mounted on whether in traffic or parking situations. As for parking lot wheel stops ("curbs"?), most all of us have learned to stop forward progress before the front wheels hit them.
YMMV
YMMV
Descartes: "Cogito Ergo Sum"
Lijewski: "Sum Ergo Drive-O. Mucho!
Lijewski: "Sum Ergo Drive-O. Mucho!
-
John Brennan
- Level 8
- Posts: 11630
- Joined: Wed Jun 18, 2003 4:19 pm
- Location: Scottsdale, AZ "Summer Is Coming"
Re: We bought our first xr. Autox/street machine in the maki
I'll reprise that statement as evidence that you haven't the faintest notion of the fluid dynamics at play here... so let me get this straight: the flap, or the air dam at the bottom of the core, creates a LOW PRESSURE area in front of it. Really? That's a first. But since Ed has declared it, from now on, all aircraft will immediately begin diving when pulling back on the stick/wheel, climbing when pushing forward, and so on. Try again-- the air dam creates a HIGH PRESSURE area in front of it, being in acccordance with the physical laws of THIS universe, which is intended to draw air UPWARDS through the core, to then join the air already moving rearwards from the radiator (which is physically in front of the core). That air is designed to then exit downward and rearward from the back of the engine bay. The factory "air dam" located beneath the crossmember is designed to create a low-pressure area behind (NOT in front of-- you follow?), it, thus causing more air to flow fully to the rear of the engine bay before exiting down and out, and aiding in the cooling process of engine, transmission, turbo, exhaust, etc.Ed Lijewski wrote:No; the flap creates a low pressure area in front of it drawing air from the above/below the front bumper openings. Engine bay air flows down/out below the body.
YMMV
I've taken you to school on this before-- which resulted in Don Haulsee backing me up-- and I'm happy to do it again.
viewtopic.php?f=30&t=9747&hilit=air+flo ... t&start=15
This is my car, and these are my people!
2015 Fiesta ST
2020 Edge 2.0 Ecoboost
2015 Fiesta ST
2020 Edge 2.0 Ecoboost
-
hEaT
- Level 7

- Posts: 3902
- Joined: Mon May 07, 2007 10:12 pm
- Location: USA
Re: We bought our first xr. Autox/street machine in the maki
John Brennan wrote:I'll reprise that statement as evidence that you haven't the faintest notion of the fluid dynamics at play here... so let me get this straight: the flap, or the air dam at the bottom of the core, creates a LOW PRESSURE area in front of it. Really? That's a first. But since Ed has declared it, from now on, all aircraft will immediately begin diving when pulling back on the stick/wheel, climbing when pushing forward, and so on. Try again-- the air dam creates a HIGH PRESSURE area in front of it, being in acccordance with the physical laws of THIS universe, which is intended to draw air UPWARDS through the core, to then join the air already moving rearwards from the radiator (which is physically in front of the core). That air is designed to then exit downward and rearward from the back of the engine bay. The factory "air dam" located beneath the crossmember is designed to create a low-pressure area behind (NOT in front of-- you follow?), it, thus causing more air to flow fully to the rear of the engine bay before exiting down and out, and aiding in the cooling process of engine, transmission, turbo, exhaust, etc.Ed Lijewski wrote:No; the flap creates a low pressure area in front of it drawing air from the above/below the front bumper openings. Engine bay air flows down/out below the body.
YMMV
I've taken you to school on this before-- which resulted in Don Haulsee backing me up-- and I'm happy to do it again.
viewtopic.php?f=30&t=9747&hilit=air+flo ... t&start=15

-
MercMike
- Level 3

- Posts: 230
- Joined: Mon Oct 08, 2012 11:25 pm
Re: We bought our first xr. Autox/street machine in the maki
I need reliable power. Decided, as mentioned before, to go back to a Big VAM setup with the PMS piggy back. That is what I was thinking.
To gain some more reliability, I am thinking of swapping back to brown tops and a LA3. So the end result will be as follows.
Paul,
If it happens you need a set of browntops, I bought a set for spares.
I'm not sure what I've got in them but that's all I need.
I will be down in Manassas to pick up an old tube amp I'm getting fixed around the end of the month ( a Saturday )
Mike
To gain some more reliability, I am thinking of swapping back to brown tops and a LA3. So the end result will be as follows.
Paul,
If it happens you need a set of browntops, I bought a set for spares.
I'm not sure what I've got in them but that's all I need.
I will be down in Manassas to pick up an old tube amp I'm getting fixed around the end of the month ( a Saturday )
Mike
'85 XR
-
catapultkid
- Level 5

- Posts: 521
- Joined: Thu Apr 26, 2012 8:04 am
- Location: Richmond, VA
Re: We bought our first xr. Autox/street machine in the maki
I think I have decided to go with the injectors I have, and then tune it with the PMS. Because the injectors are only a hair bigger I shouldn't have to do too much with compensation as long as the timing and stuff is near stock as well. That is the plan anyways.
Thanks for the offer. Glad there are people local
Thanks for the offer. Glad there are people local
-Paul
'85 Merkur XR4Ti
K20, VW mk2
'89 K2500, 6.0 swap
'00 Honda Insight
'85 Merkur XR4Ti
K20, VW mk2
'89 K2500, 6.0 swap
'00 Honda Insight
-
catapultkid
- Level 5

- Posts: 521
- Joined: Thu Apr 26, 2012 8:04 am
- Location: Richmond, VA
Re: We bought our first xr. Autox/street machine in the maki
Had some time to get this thing a little further along. Hadn't had any time to do anything due to the first Lemons race in South Carolina CMP.

From there we started the autox season yesterday, but got a day or so in on Saturday. Hopefully next weekend we can get it driving.
Let's see where to start.
New lower radiator hose. The cheap and dirty way. 1 5/8" aluminum pipe and silicon elbows, then stainless soft hose clamps.


Then put new trans fluid in it. Love this little tool I got from autozone, $7

Block off plate made

Wife made a gauge panel

Battery box in

Had to tear into the harness a bit, learned that I should not have had spent the energy in making it nice before I made sure it works. Missed something that powered the old MAF.

Got it started from here. Took about a bunch of fuel out from everywhere.

So the original tune was for the "Converted" MAF signal, now it is coming from a big VAM. It is running super rich still and the wideband is not working correctly. So I will need to sort a bunch of this stuff out first before I can tune it. Love hearing it run and I will say the exhaust has a deep tone to it now with the 3" downpipe.

From there we started the autox season yesterday, but got a day or so in on Saturday. Hopefully next weekend we can get it driving.
Let's see where to start.
New lower radiator hose. The cheap and dirty way. 1 5/8" aluminum pipe and silicon elbows, then stainless soft hose clamps.


Then put new trans fluid in it. Love this little tool I got from autozone, $7

Block off plate made

Wife made a gauge panel

Battery box in

Had to tear into the harness a bit, learned that I should not have had spent the energy in making it nice before I made sure it works. Missed something that powered the old MAF.

Got it started from here. Took about a bunch of fuel out from everywhere.

So the original tune was for the "Converted" MAF signal, now it is coming from a big VAM. It is running super rich still and the wideband is not working correctly. So I will need to sort a bunch of this stuff out first before I can tune it. Love hearing it run and I will say the exhaust has a deep tone to it now with the 3" downpipe.
-Paul
'85 Merkur XR4Ti
K20, VW mk2
'89 K2500, 6.0 swap
'00 Honda Insight
'85 Merkur XR4Ti
K20, VW mk2
'89 K2500, 6.0 swap
'00 Honda Insight
-
Ray
- Level 7

- Posts: 4338
- Joined: Sun Oct 24, 2004 10:40 am
- Location: CT, USA
Re: We bought our first xr. Autox/street machine in the maki
Looks excellent; couple quick comments --
Please break or fuse the battery positive near the battery. In case of that wire compromising; just makes sense.
You air filter is a bit small - might limit some top end flow.
Otherwise, dig it. A lot

Please break or fuse the battery positive near the battery. In case of that wire compromising; just makes sense.
You air filter is a bit small - might limit some top end flow.
Otherwise, dig it. A lot
-Ray
1985 Ford F150 - Tow Missile
1985 Merkur XR4Ti -#141 CP "Miss Daisy"
2005 Subaru LGT
http://www.cartct.com
1985 Ford F150 - Tow Missile
1985 Merkur XR4Ti -#141 CP "Miss Daisy"
2005 Subaru LGT
http://www.cartct.com
-
Esteban
- Level 7

- Posts: 1980
- Joined: Wed Mar 24, 2010 2:07 am
- Location: San Diego
Re: We bought our first xr. Autox/street machine in the maki
I hope that filter has enough surface area. Otherwise it may collapse on itself.
-
MercMike
- Level 3

- Posts: 230
- Joined: Mon Oct 08, 2012 11:25 pm
Re: We bought our first xr. Autox/street machine in the maki
Hey the "woodie" splitter on the lemons rig I suppose it's good for some commentary ......
made me smile. Top Gear will be envious !
'85 XR

