We bought our first xr. Autox/street machine in the making.

[catapultkid]

Hey the "woodie" splitter on the lemons rig I suppose it's good for some commentary ...... made me smile. Top Gear will be envious !

If anyone cares, here is the build thread on that.

Im worried about the filter as well but was the only thing I could find to fit in the hole. I may have to do something else.

I'm also worried about the coolant route. It is not cycling through the intake at all and has a large air bubble in there and the heater core. Going to do a little more simplification for the time being I think.

[catapultkid]

Got some work in this weekend. Only one more weekend before the test and tune so here goes.

Not many photos but it weighed 2840 with 1/3 tank of fuel



1480 on the nose



Running around a bit. Had an issue with the boost pipe popping off, then I accidentally plugged in the the wrong firing order once and it thru me for a loop for awhile. In the end I hope everything is ok.



Did get a seat in real quick in hopes to gain more head room. Didn't really happen and it is pitched too far back, but it does hold you in.



Couple things that I am worried about.

First: It is burning oil I think, not just running rich, I remember when priming the oil pump I had the turbo hooked up and the turbine got tight. It took a few revolutions by hand for it to relax. I am hoping that is the issue and nothing else. It could be valve stem seals, that would be my second preference I think. Lastly the rings, which it is most likely, however it was 145-150 across all cylinders cold.

Second: I need to tune it better, it doesn't like cold start and doesn't like to idle until it warms up some.

Third: The wideband has an error or two it will throw under start-up/heat up then work fine. I'm not sure what is going on there, but it calibrated and reads like it should.

Forth: The PMS standalone is showing a "Spark output fault" error code. I have no idea what this is.


But all in all I'm happy. Tires for the autox event are on the way, going to pick up springs and perches for the front tonight I hope from a friend. Thinking something around 450ish. Rears will have to wait.

[Jon L.]

Third: The wideband has an error or two it will throw under start-up/heat up then work fine. I'm not sure what is going on there, but it calibrated and reads like it should.

I read back, this is an XD-16? (w/ LC1?) What is the error number?

[hEaT]

Innovates fail? What?


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PVWlhk6uGoo

[catapultkid]

On start up, I get the heater countdown like I should, Then a E2 error, then a E9 error, then it reads normal.... at least I hope it is. Those are power and ground errors but I never changed the power or gound. I did have a mix up with the small wires running to the xd-16. You know those 2.5mm jacks? Well I had to cut those wires, and then lost the piece that had the colors on it. So basically I had to try combinations, called innovate and they said only one combination would work and read the errors, so I thought I had it right, then discovered that I have two combinations that will work...

Heat, it doesn't bounce around like that. was that your car?

[hEaT]

That's how mine started, then it slowly went full retard.


And yea, that was a video from my car of a couple years ago.

[catapultkid]

Well we will see what happens. I hope it doesn't fail, seems like a lot of people have trouble with them

A little update before the first autox event on the new motor.

Got some stuff in, Hoosier's in 225/50/16



Started having to make them fit so the first thing was to remove the giant front perches and springs.



Apart





Cut down the size



Added a plate to the collar to sit flat on and tacked it on



350lbs springs on the front



Inner fenders crumbled away



Installed



Made new shields for the wiring under there





Started having to remove exterior trim



Here is why





Made some more room



We will see



Bled the brakes and this came out



Added a copper heat shield/heat sink to the wideband along with the protectant to the wiring.



And after a alignment, 0 toe in rear, 1/8" out up front, I packed... "just the essentials" to get me home and run at the event next weekend.



Issues so far.

1. Believe the turbo is burning the oil, still not convinced. I think the return line has more bends in it than it likes. It is also leaking some from the return line area.
2. The tune is still pretty bad but drivable. Once it warms up the car runs great, but when cold it leans out way way too much and runs rough.

[Esteban]

I think your wideband O2 sensor should be more downstream. At least on the Autometer and AEM units I have, it was suggested not to have them that close to the turbine in fear of damaging the sensor.
Another way of gaining clearance for the large tires up front is to run the car at stock height or maybe add a shim between the TCA and swaybar to gain some clearance. I will also add caster which is actually beneficial to the XR.

[xR4rally]

Another way of gaining clearance for the large tires up front is to run the car at stock height or maybe add a shim between the TCA and swaybar to gain some clearance. I will also add caster which is actually beneficial to the XR.

Thank you for this suggestion. I've been thinking about this 'problem' for a little while and I don't know why this hasn't occurred to me.

I've also been following this build with much interest since its inception.

[catapultkid]

I think your wideband O2 sensor should be more downstream. At least on the Autometer and AEM units I have, it was suggested not to have them that close to the turbine in fear of damaging the sensor.
Another way of gaining clearance for the large tires up front is to run the car at stock height or maybe add a shim between the TCA and swaybar to gain some clearance. I will also add caster which is actually beneficial to the XR.

I've been wondering about the O2. It was the best place possible at that time and I added the copper to help it. I've got another sensor on standby just in case.

The tire is about as close to the front as rear when turning in the other direction. I added some caster but what I really need to do is hack up the front a bunch and add a ton of caster like you mentioned. We will see how bad it is this weekend. Thanks for the tips

[Esteban]

Ive talked to Ben and he suggests running as much caster as you have clearance for. Stock XR's have about 2.5* but Ben is running almost triple that! However, you also have to think about stressing the inner TCA bushings as they may not have as much compliance before they start to split.

[catapultkid]

Like the old fashion golden rule of autox. "Caster is faster"

I need more if Ben got 3x the amount over stock

[hEaT]

School me, why is more caster better?

Also, couldn't you weld on a plate and relocate the sway bar mounts on the chassis to add more caster without stressing the bushings more?

[DSPXR4ti]

School me, why is more caster better?

Also, couldn't you weld on a plate and relocate the sway bar mounts on the chassis to add more caster without stressing the bushings more?

It help with no camber change, without alot of caster and you lose tire contact patch. This is what it looks like with +7.5 of caster.




catapultkid, run at lease 40 lbs of tire PSI on the front tires many because you have about -2.5 to -2.25 camber right, other wise your going to have funny tire wear. Also test you front toe, I think 1/8 is to much but I'm also 450lbs lighter then your XR but then your only running 450lbs front springs, you maybe rolling over the front more.

Ben

[catapultkid]

Thanks Ben, that is a awesome picture showing a clear example. I'm running 350 lbs front and who knows in the rear. Your car is light! under 2400 lbs!

hEaT: Technically, caster can help you gain more camber than static as you turn in further. Think of a how your wheel pivots around the low ball joint and top of strut, draw imaginary line. If this line is perfectly vertical then as you rotate the wheel around that imaginary line there is no camber change because it is always straight up and down, you are just turning. As that line is brought closer and closer to being horizontal (lots of caster) the previous flat portion of the wheel on the ground (the bottom) begins to become angled as the inner most portion is all that remains touching. Giving you camber when you need it (at turn in). Therefore it stands to reason "caster is faster".