Merkur Depot Radiator and Intercooler Install (Lots of pics)

[WVENGR]

So I decided, after my factory radiator cracked open on me, to upgrade the radiator and add an intercooler, instead of buying a used stock one that was likely to crack open again. I did some research and asked some dumb questions and eventually decided on the Merkur Depot Setup. I am planning on detailing the install process here, just so the next guy that does this has a one stop shop for what he needs.

***NOTE: My car may have parts yours doesn't, and may not have parts yours does, so your experience may vary. don't blame me if you blow up your car either, I am by no means an expert Also I never had AC, so no clue how that effects this.

Step 1: Acquire parts

The expensive part of the operation, also a lot of waiting.



Intercooler and radiator combo kit (Merkur Depot) $329.95
Hot Side intercooler piping kit (Merkur Depot) $64.95
2 2.5inch diameter 1 foot straight aluminum intercooler pipe, (SiliconeIntakes.com)
3 2.5inch 90deg elbows, (SiliconeIntakes.com)
1 2.5inch BOV tee (SiliconeIntakes.com)
8 2.5Inch T clamps (SiliconeIntakes.com)
12 Inch Radiator fan (SiliconeIntakes.com) (Total from Silicone Intakes 134.90)
Dual Piston BOV 1 inch connector (EBAY) $36.99
Automatic "Y Hose" (BAT INC) $39.00

Edit: I bought that 2 foot 90 degree pipe. It is short by about 2 inches. Switching the list to say 3 90 deg elbows and 2 1 foot pipes
TOTAL about $600

Step 2:Take it apart

Remove the fan, easy stuff here, take the 2 bolts out of the top and you are good


Then drain the cooling system. Using this little valve here. I had to use pliers on it as it was stuck. be gentle with it and it will work for you.


Remove all the hoses going to the radiator from engine, coolant bottle, ECT.

So this is where things got a little difficult for me. The bolts underneath that hold up the radiator were stuck, I PB Blaster-ed them with not much luck, so I removed the bumper to get an impact gun in there!



There are 8 nuts in each wheel well that hold the bumper on, these are easy, also there are 2 plastic hangers underneath that you can unclip. The difficult part, if the bumper has never been removed before is the double stick tape on the top of the bumper beam. I used a thin flathead screwdriver and slowly worked it along the tape. Still took forever to get it off. Tape seems to have been crafted out of Adamantium or something.

So I impact gun-ed the 2 radiator bolts out, then removed the two top bolts with a rachet.


The radiator should now fall out. Throw it out, we won't be needing it anymore!


Finally remove the output pipe from the turbo.


Since it is apart, this is a good time to do any engine maintenance you have planned. Thermostat, fan belts, timing belt, and waterpump are a cake walk with no radiator in there. I HIGHLY suggest flushing the cooling system at this point.

Part 3: Assembly

Connect the "Y" hose from the AT car up to the lower pipe on the side of the engine and to the lower coolant tank nipple. Also cap off the hose that used to go to the upper air bleed off. You can get cooling system caps cheap at auto parts stores, I just had one laying around.



Use a drill to make 2 small holes in the bottom flange of the radiator, for mounting the fan. Bolt the fan on and then use the ties supplied with the fan to secure the top between the radiator and intercooler (I didn't trust the ties alone to hold it, as the roads can be rough around here.) Finally, cut the wiring harness off the old fan to make an adapter to connect the new fan into the harness. I connected Red to Blue and Black to Black to get the right airflow.


Next bolt the new turbo outlet elbow onto the turbo.


Thats all I have done today folks! Tune in tomorrow for more!

[WVENGR]

So, Day 2 begins

Get a friend, neighbor, family member, someone, to help you hold the radiator in place while you bolt it in. It installs well without the rubber isolators of the stock one. Pull the washers off of them to use with the stock bolts. Run in the 2 bolts underneath the car. Make sure the top of the radiator sits as far back as it can, like the stock one did, mine tried to sit at a funny angle the first time.


Connect the plug from the fan, zip tie any excess length out of the way, then reconnect the upper and lower radiator hoses. The stock hoses will connect fine to the new shorty radiator. Hose clamp everything down.

Forgot a hose clamp in this picture and had to take it back apart. Helps to remember all of the the first time.

Then get out the hot side piping, 2 connectors that came with it and the T clamps. Put it on there and get the connectors set up right. It is a little tight, and if the radator is sitting too close to the engine it won't fit. even with it right it can be a little awkward to get on, but it will. Then tighten the clamps.


Move on to your cold side piping. This is where I learned that the pipe I bought was short by about 2 inches, because I thought I would be clever by buying a 2 foot pipe bent instead of 2 1 foot pipes and an elbow, failing to take into account that the bend ate up some length.
So I had to order more parts. I will update my parts list from the first post and continue with the cold side piping after I have the parts.

[MercMike]

I would NOT install a radiator without "rubber insulators". If you can fit something in there ( rubber something ) to dampen vibrations it will live much longer.

[WVENGR]

I would NOT install a radiator without "rubber insulators". If you can fit something in there ( rubber something ) to dampen vibrations it will live much longer.

From Merkur Depot's page for this radiator.

"We reccomend removing the factory rubber isolators used with the stock raditors and mounting this unit into place without them. Good news for owners with lowered cars - you will pick up an extra 3/4" of ground clearance when mounting it this way."

[Grayson]

Man...you should have just removed the six screws that hold the aluminum bumper to the chassis rather than ungluing the bumper fascia from the bumper.

[rommaster2]

Yeah looking at the install pictures I was wondering why he removed the bumper. I suppose it makes it easier but honestly its not terribly complicated to remove the factory radiator to begin with.

[WVENGR]

Yeah looking at the install pictures I was wondering why he removed the bumper. I suppose it makes it easier but honestly its not terribly complicated to remove the factory radiator to begin with.

Well, as I said earlier the bolts were stuck, I needed clearance for the impact gun because they wouldn't turn with the ratchet., also I tried getting the bumper beam loose but couldn't figure it out, so I went with the cover. The factory service manual is not real helpful in this regard.

[spiffy]

Anyone have experience with these intercoolers? I've come to the conclusion that the intercooler I've picked up is just too big and won't work without a fair amount of work. I've been leaning towards the merkurdepot radiator/intercooler combo for a little while now, but haven't been able to find reviews on them. I'm just somewhat worried that it'll be prone to heatsoak being above the radiator, and whether or not it would be as efficient as a somewhat larger front mount after adding a couple psi.

Not meaning to threadjack, but I'm debating on ordering this combo here in a week or so and was looking for some input on the best plan of attack.

[XR2300]

Anyone have experience with these intercoolers? I've come to the conclusion that the intercooler I've picked up is just too big and won't work without a fair amount of work. I've been leaning towards the merkurdepot radiator/intercooler combo for a little while now, but haven't been able to find reviews on them. I'm just somewhat worried that it'll be prone to heatsoak being above the radiator, and whether or not it would be as efficient as a somewhat larger front mount after adding a couple psi.

Not meaning to threadjack, but I'm debating on ordering this combo here in a week or so and was looking for some input on the best plan of attack.

Did not know there was such a thing as too big

[merk23literturbo]

This is probably the best IC setup you can buy. It bolts in, easy to get and no problems with heat soak with the cossie grill. I have tried small NPR, turbocoupe and Saab intercoolers.

[WVENGR]

Well it is installed, but I am leaking boost something terrible. Going to hold of on the update until I sort it out.

[86XR4Ti5SPD]

Anyone have experience with these intercoolers? I've come to the conclusion that the intercooler I've picked up is just too big and won't work without a fair amount of work. I've been leaning towards the merkurdepot radiator/intercooler combo for a little while now, but haven't been able to find reviews on them. I'm just somewhat worried that it'll be prone to heatsoak being above the radiator, and whether or not it would be as efficient as a somewhat larger front mount after adding a couple psi.

Not meaning to threadjack, but I'm debating on ordering this combo here in a week or so and was looking for some input on the best plan of attack.

Another option frequently used is the Cossie 2WD IC above the 'shorty' aluminum radiator. They turn up around 'here' from time to time. I sourced mine through Ebay U.K.

[merkurdriver]

I would NOT install a radiator without "rubber insulators". If you can fit something in there ( rubber something ) to dampen vibrations it will live much longer.

From Merkur Depot's page for this radiator.

"We reccomend removing the factory rubber isolators used with the stock raditors and mounting this unit into place without them. Good news for owners with lowered cars - you will pick up an extra 3/4" of ground clearance when mounting it this way."

Something thin and flat like a cut section of an old bicycle tube will suffice if you want to put a little cushion in there. These rads are not the delicate plastic tank stock rads.
Last one put in a Scorpio ( same rad, just has the mounting tabs in a diferent spot ) I laid it on the ground and jumped up and down on it a few times before installing to prove a point to some guys here thinking about buying a rad for one of their XRs. Thinking of a youtube vid where I drive over one with a XR and then install it. Some good ole fashioned late night infomercial tactics.

[merkurdriver]

Well it is installed, but I am leaking boost something terrible. Going to hold of on the update until I sort it out.

Check the ebay dual piston BOV. The smaller nylon piston in those can hang up and give an air leak.

[merkurdriver]

This is probably the best IC setup you can buy. It bolts in, easy to get and no problems with heat soak with the cossie grill. I have tried small NPR, turbocoupe and Saab intercoolers.

Thanks for the good words Don

Heat rises, so it will heatsoak a little while sitting still but once your moving and have a Cossie grille that will be long dissipaited
This new version we put a small air gap between the rad and IC - you could sneak some rubber in there or a phelonic plate as an additional barrier.