Anglin's Racer Build and History

Post by **Grayson** » Fri May 12, 2006 10:15 am

adn who is [email protected] cause he sold me the merkur cdrom that has bin a great help till now

That was my old e-mail address way back in the day. My current one is [email protected], and we still sell the shop manual CDs in our http://www.mc2racing.com store.

I've shipped a few shop manual CDs to the Netherlands over the years, but the farthest one I have shipped went to Australia.

Tygeri · Post by **Tygeri** » Fri May 12, 2006 11:33 am

yeah i got it from there and send some people to that site that was a long time ago you didnt have a shop and only sold the merkur cds so long time ago
cant be a lot of cds to the netherlands cause as far as i know there only 6 running here

Post by **anglin** » Sat May 13, 2006 10:49 am

I rediscovered pictures of the lightweight starter and comparisons between it and the stock starter recently. Figured I'd add them, since they were included as a part of my Odyssey battery installation. The solenoid moves to the starter as a part of this mod, so wiring changes were required, so this was a convenient time to do the work.

Lightweight starter:

Comparison between lightweight and stock starter:

Stock starter, 12.75 lb

Lightweight starter, 7.75 lb - 5 lb weight savings

BeefFajitas · Post by **BeefFajitas** » Sat May 13, 2006 11:57 am

Did you include the weight of the old solenoid? That's got some heft for it's size.

Colin · Post by **Colin** » Sat May 13, 2006 1:15 pm

Yeah, but I believe Anglin retained the old solenoid/relay (mainly as a power distribution lug, right?)

Colin

Post by **anglin** » Sat May 13, 2006 5:42 pm

No, the weight difference does not account for the solenoid, which has been removed from the car. So, yes, the actual weight reduction is a somewhere around a pound more than indicated by the scale readings above. However, I will probably be adding another, second solenoid to the system. This will make it so I don't have an always hot cable to the starter passing through the floor pan in the car. Even the weight reduction

has to think of safety.

The "power distribution lug" is the switched side of the battery cutoff switch now, if you really want to look at its function that way. I removed and redistributed all the wires that used to go to the stock starter solenoid and stock negative battery cable.

Post by **anglin** » Sat May 13, 2006 5:49 pm

Here's another recently completed detail of the carbon hood installation. I needed a way to prop the stock hood up. The prop rod worked okay, but I wanted it a little bit more secure. Here's how I handled it:

Well, back to the garage. I guess today is carbon fiber day; I'm working on those carbon fiber shock tower braces today.

Ray · Post by **Ray** » Sat May 13, 2006 6:56 pm

did you just say carbon fiber shock tower braces?

Post by **anglin** » Sat May 13, 2006 8:48 pm

demonfire wrote:did you just say carbon fiber shock tower braces?

smoke3006 · Post by **smoke3006** » Sat May 13, 2006 9:12 pm

demonfire wrote:did you just say carbon fiber shock tower braces?

Oh no...
Ray stop drooling on your keyboard

Post by **John Brennan** » Sat May 13, 2006 10:10 pm

Chris, bear in mind that that prop rod will come loose at the slightest puff of wind-- it wouldn't thump you like the stock hood would, but then again, you might suddenly find your face pushed into the alternator if you were leaning over it and it took you by surprise. Might I suggest a little strip of Velcro you could pull loose and then secure the rod into?

turbofan · Post by **turbofan** » Sat May 13, 2006 11:04 pm

anglin wrote:
demonfire wrote:did you just say carbon fiber shock tower braces?

i gotta say, the very best part... is how many you have. anglin, friggin awesome. how much do those weigh?

Post by **anglin** » Wed May 24, 2006 2:53 pm

John Brennan wrote:Chris, bear in mind that that prop rod will come loose at the slightest puff of wind-- it wouldn't thump you like the stock hood would, but then again, you might suddenly find your face pushed into the alternator if you were leaning over it and it took you by surprise.

I've thought about the hood coming off the rod. It will certainly happen, however, it will hardly cause any sort of effect on me or my head if that happens. You'd be amazed at how lightly it closes when dropped from full height. Makes a nice, light "thuck" when it is dropped closed. Remember it weighs 6.5 lbs, it's hinged, and it has an approximate surface area of 2100 square inches.

I just ran some tests. If I really put my head down low it packs a decent punch, but at normal, stare-blankly-at-the-engine height, it doesn't have much force. Yes, that's right. I just went outside and intentionally let the carbon hood fall on my head multiple times. And you thought male-retardation ended when you left your teenage years...

turbofan wrote:anglin, friggin awesome. how much do those weigh?

That picture has become one of my all-time favorite obnoxious pictures (the carbonschlong picture still ranks #1; you know what they say - once you go 5.7 oz 3k tow 2x2 twill, you never go back). The tube weighs about 0.875 lb. The tube could be lighter if it weren't 0.125" wall, but I purchased what was available.

SARON81 · Post by **SARON81** » Wed May 24, 2006 3:03 pm

anglin wrote: I just ran some tests. If I really put my head down low it packs a decent punch, but at normal, stare-blankly-at-the-engine height, it doesn't have much force. Yes, that's right. I just went outside and intentionally let the carbon hood fall on my head multiple times. And you thought male-retardation ended when you left your teenage years...

That's freekin hilarious! No damage done I take it?

Anyways... how can I get one of those strut tower braces onto my car??

Post by **Ed Lijewski** » Wed May 24, 2006 4:22 pm

DPDISXR4Ti wrote:
Colin wrote:
anglin wrote:I get to maintain this thread in two places, since not everybody who is here is over there and vice versa.
Ahh yes... welcome to my hell.
...Chris, is the Odyssey battery a sealed gel type? Everyone always thinks that's what the Optima is, but it's not. Both do have the advantage of being able to be mounted in any position and no vent is required, both features which are important for this type of application. I'm thinking about mounting one behind the rear seat beam on the passenger side, with access through a "4x4" panel salvaged from the Brat.

I saw an XR with a Dyna Batt installed in the normal battery area; these things are amazingly tiny. It was held directly against the firewall with a simple plate-type mount screwed into the firewall (and the battery tray was removed since it was no longer needed). The Dyna Batt occupied less than 1/3rd of the space of a typical battery.

See here for info: http://www.performancedistributors.com/batteries.htm
"Lighten up your street car, hot rod or race car! Remove the heavy 40 lb battery and replace it with Performance Distributors 13.5 lb Dyna-Batt. The Dyna Batt produces more power per pound than any battery on the market. It has the cranking power of wet cell batteries three times its size! This is due to the extremely low internal resistance which allows faster, more consistant starting. The Dyna Batt does not have a cold cranking amp rating like other batteries, but has been tested to crank engines with compression ratios as high as 15:1. The reserve capacity of the Dyna Batt is 16 Amp Hours. The Dyna-Batt is completely dry cell and can withstand the rigors of high performance and racing environments. It is built with corrosion resistant terminals and is truly maintenance free."

YMMV