Swaybar Bushing Differences

[Tumbler]

I am trying to install my swaybar bushings I received from mc2 (thanks Grayson) the issue I am running into is that my bushings seem to have such a large shoulder on the sides that I can't get the metal mount over the bushing to mount it on the car. Do I need to get more aggressive or do I need to just trim the shoulders?



here is the bushing

[John Brennan]

Assuming you have the correct part for your sway bar size, and that you have the proper part for your brackets (or brackets for the part), I found that getting somewhat aggressive was part of it. It seems like they won't fit, but crank 'em on there; they'll compress.

Oh, yeah-- trimming is definitely not an option-- you'll only destroy them. You either have the right part, or you don't!

[Chuck W]

You need the later XR or Scorpio brackets.

[hEaT]

What are the difference between the older and newer style? Anything on the older brackets that could be modified?

[Ed Lijewski]

The later XR/Scorpio brackets are larger--that's why they fit the better bushings you have. [I would think that cranking down on the earlier (smaller) XR sway bar bracket with the better bushing would result in more and earlier wear ont he bushing....no?].

YMMV

[anglin]

The later XR/Scorpio brackets are larger

Excellent FAQ topic; this one should go in there. I gotta get pictures of all the brackets and different bushing styles first.

[whitelx]

I used a set of PowerFlex sway bar bushings on my 86 XR. While they fit the sway bar just fine, they would not fit into the brackets. I had to buy a set of Scorpio sway bar brackets. After that, everything went together just fine.

[John Brennan]

I did emphasize that one needs the proper bushing, bracket, and bar combination-- even then, the fit is nice and snug, and it may seem that the bushings are overlarge for the application.

[XR4BILL]

I got my brackets from a Sierra in a scrap yard while in the UK. Even then the poly bushings are tight.
Bill.

[Tumbler]

My thread is being used as a FAQ

[anglin]

My thread is being used as a FAQ

Word. And my FTP is still down. Even though I've picked out some decent pictures, I cannot upload them.

[anglin]

Alrighty, my FTP is working now and I've got a handful of pictures uploaded regarding the anti-roll bar (sway bar) brackets and bushings. Please review the following material for content and accuracy.

There are two different styles of anti-roll bar brackets and bushings that bolt to the XR4Ti. Each bushing and bracket style is a matched set and forcing "part A" into "hole B" will likely render some unintended results (excessive wear, undue noise, and possibly altered function of the anti-roll bar).

The "early" style has rounded shoulders on the outside edges of the bushing and the bracket has a matching profile (I don't have a picture of the bracket right now - can anybody email a picture to me for addition to this FAQ). I've only seen the early brackets in black-painted stamped steel.

The "late" style has pointed shoulders on the outside edges of the bushing and the bracket it appropriately clearanced for these shoulders. Additionally, there is a centering ridge on the centerline radius. I've only seen the late brackets in zinc-plated stamped steel.

In the following picture, the late bushing is on the left (purple, Powerflex) and the early bushing is on the right (black, Rapido polyurethane).


The following picture shows the late bracket and its Ford part number.


The following picture shows the late bracket and the late bushing (Powerflex). (The yellow bushings to the right are Powerflex strut tower bushings.)


The following picture shows the side profile of the late bushing/bracket assembly and the late bracket itself.

[Ed Lijewski]

Nice work. Since it's probable that some who will check out this FAQ may R&R or upgrade their sway bar bushings, it would be good to include this Tip re that procedure: Use a floor jack to maintain pressure on the sway bar when removing the bolts holding the bushing brackets, and also use a floor jack to maneuver the sway bar into proper mounting position when reinstalling them. This enables the bolts to be threaded easily into their captured nuts within the body floor. The floor jack will need to be positioned "just so" through trial and error and then raising it against the sway bar, but once in that sweet spot the bolts should screw in easily by hand. Follwoing this approach ensures agains the dreaded cross-threading that nearly always results in either a broken bolt or captured nut.

YMMV

[anglin]

All,

Craig Thommes and I were chatting about this FAQ and he noted the lack of pictures of the early style brackets and offered to help out. He emailed me pictures recently and, since I'm on a kick of knocking out lingering projects, I am sharing them here to complete this FAQ.

Craig did notice something that most people have apparently overlooked. There is a difference in bolt spacing between the early and the late brackets. That is also depicted in these pictures. Enjoy!

Early bracket and bushing (left) vs. late bracket and bushing (right)


profile comparison


size comparison between brackets (early is above, late is below)


bolt hole spacing comparison between brackets


bolt hole alignment of the late bracket with the chassis


late bracket attached to the chassis

[DPDISXR4Ti]

Any idea on what the cross-over date is for the "early" vs. "late" brackets/bolt pattern?

Side note.... I know you've started this Chris (as have I, but only in my head ), but one of these days we'll need to thoroughly document all the changes (with dates), across the term of the 5 years.