I basically see it as a low buck alternative to the cosworth 24v v6.... and I'm glad you can appreciate the historical aspect of it too. That's my main reason for wanting to do it, there are better swaps out there for pure performance obviously.
Still that being said with some breathing mods it would be nothing to joke about, and could potentially get better fuel economy than most if not all 2.3ts (at least with the proper tuning- I'm going off the 28 mpg hwy rating on the 2005 mustang) On 87 octane also.
4.0L Cologne / 5R55 swap
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milehighXR
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GeneticRehab
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DPDISXR4Ti
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Or, more to the point I think you're driving at, how feasible is it to just bring over the Cossie 24v heads and install them on a common-as-fleas stateside Cologne block (2.9 or 4.0).GeneticRehab wrote:How much of the 24v fits on the US Cologne?
From http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Cologne_V6_engine...
2.9 Cosworth
A special DOHC version of the 2.9 was created by Cosworth Engineering in 1991 ( Code BOA ). Although it shared the same block as the standard 2.9 (with a few machining operations left out to improve strength), power output was up to 195 PS (143 kW) and torque was boosted to 203 ft·lbf (275 N·m) at 4500 rpm. This engine was used in the Ford Scorpio Cosworth 24V. It was always mated to an improved A4LD ( A4LDe ( small e)) automatic gearbox. No manual versions were available.
The engine used an almost 3-metre (9.8 ft) long duplex chain to drive the camshafts, tensioned by a hydraulic tensioner. The oil pump was driven by a shaft located where the camshaft previously was. The ignition was replaced by a distributorless EDIS-6 system which had no moving parts at all.
The engine was known for its substantial increase in power delivery above 4000 rpm relative to the unmodified version; in recent years the engine has become a popular choice as a replacement engine for Ford Sierras.
An improved version of this engine ( code BOB ) was available in the restyled 1995 Ford Scorpio. Differences included two simplex chains with two hydraulic tensioners and the addition of a variable length intake system called VIS. Power output was increased to 210 bhp (157 kW). This was mated to a fully electronically controlled A4LDE (big E) Autobox.
Brad
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GeneticRehab
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Taps
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Introduction
Engines are part of the Ford Cologne V6 family, but the 4.0 is a derivative block from the original cologne block originally found with a capacity of 2.3 or 2.8. It became later a 2.4 or 2.9, the later is commonly found in the Ford scorpio (Granada in UK). The 4.0 is an American Ford block, found in a Explorer for instance. I don't want to begin the discussion of the different versions of the 2.9 and 4.0 blocks, but I can tell you the 2.9 block I'm dismantling is a cosworth BOA block, and the 4.0 is a 95TM. The cosworth came in the versions BOA and BOB which can be easily differentiated by their respective intake manifold.
Please note this article is written with measureents in the metric system unless otherwise specified. Take also into account that in my country the driver is sitting at the left side of the car ! Finally, I apologize for all the crap on the engines.
Engine Block
Let's get started. Externally, the short blocks are already different as the 4.0 is a taller deck block. There's a difference of about 2 cm, that can easily be noticed when you put a cossie head and the front cover on the 4.0
Cossie
You can see the bolts holes of the cover fit the block in every place but in the lower one drivers side [font="Arial Black"](& one @ the back of the timing cover?)[/font]. Reboring another hole shouldn't be not a too tough a problem, but you will have to first fill the one existing in the 4.0 block. The difference in deck height brings another problem: the space between the head and the front cover means you will have to build some spacers but the shape of those is rectangular, meaning not too much hassle.
When you pull the front cover away, you can see the bolt holes needed to maintain the chain tensioner system are the same, so that's good news. Unfortunately, the 4.0 has two holes for oil feeding the mechanical chain tensioners. They have to be blocked. I would use some threaded plugs. The other problem is the missing stud protruding at the left of the crankshaft on the 2.9. You need it for the timing chain tensioner. Later on specific info about that.
4.0L Front
Cossie BOA
Cossie BOB
[font="Arial Black"]As you can see the BOA & BOB blocks are slightly different[/font]
The 4.0L camshaft and it's cossie counterpart, which runs the oil pump on both engines. First the bad news, the base circle is not the same, so the change over is not easy. We'll have to stick with the 4.0 camshaft, meaning we have to create an adapter to be able to attach the sprocket for the timing chain. The other bad news is that the camshaft that makes the distributor and the oil pump turn does so in the opposite way of the cosworth ! The thread of the 4.0L is inclined the other way, so we'll have to use a modified 4.0 distributor (to let the oil pump turn). It would be very interesting to see the parts in a 4.0 SOHC engine.
[font="Arial Black"]O.K the oil pumps on the 4.0L is the same design as the 24V indeed if you think about it the oil pump is the same basic type for the 2.9 12V 4.0 & Cossie engine's so should be no problems here:) The 4.0L's I have looked at do not have a distrubter they have a dummy drive just like the Cossie, just @ around 1996 it also has a cam sensor on it that you don't need. The jack shaft on the SOHC is no good either as it has a drive on it @ the rear for the cam.
So it's a pre 96 4.0L dummy drive with either oil pump + 4.0L drive oil shaft.[/font]
4.0L cam & Cossie dummy cam.
The distance, center to center, between the camshaft and the crank is about 14,5 cm on the 2.9 and 16,5 cm on the 4.0. This means the timming chain will be longer, also the block is taller.
Here are pictures of the block left and right side. A engine mount will have to be fabricated on the driver side to match the 2.9 motor mounts or a plate of some kind?
4.0L
Cossie
When turning the engines upside down, you can see infact that the 4.0 is wider than the 2.9, about 1cm. There's no way to put the sump of the cosworth on the 4.0L with out mods, most holes are not in the same place & it is not wide enough.
[font="Arial Black"]This would need some work a 4.0L sump can be used of course but it is a bit of a funny shape & unless you have alot of room can be a tight fit, any way you want to fit that 4x4 sump right
Also note that the 97 block has wider pan rails which should mean it's slightly stronger[/font]
4.0L
Cossie BOA
Cossie BOB
I removed the crankshafts to better let you see the difference in block. It is important due to the crankshafts, 2.9 fits either but 2.9 block will not take the 4.0L one with out mods Main diameters and spacing are the same on both blocks. It's also a good moment to look at the difference between the two reguarding the sump bolt holes.
4.0L
BOA Bottom
BOB Bottom
You see how far the cylinders on the 2.9 blocks are coming down the block.
Cylinder heads
Good news, they fit:
On top, the water passages are not really at the same place, but if we look at the holes in the gaskets it appears to be O.K.
It's important to check this as overheating could be a problem.
It's not done yet but I can say the heads of the cosworth bolt with no hassle on the 4.0.
4.0L
Also note that some 4.0L blocks have slightly different water holes.
2.9 Blocks
Gaskets 4.0L Vs 2.9 12V
You can not use the 2.9 gasket however as the bore is too great on the 4.OL.
You can buy cylinder seals so that's an idea or get some made up, not mega money
The 2.9 head gasket. I decided to take such a picture to look at the effective use of the holes between the head and the block. My point is that the ones that are used are still open.
Have a closer look at the picture to see the size of the holes used for water passage. They have nothing to do with the head gasket as they are generally way smaller!
Hmm this could be the dodgy bit, the only real way to try it is to build a engine & see what happens but it does look O.K from what I can see
I decided to fit both heads. I will now try to adapt the stock timing chain tensioners. You can already see the heads are not as close as on the cossie, meaning the sock intake manifold, STD fuel rail (and the water return?) will not fit.
O.K another problem is the tensioner or tensioners if it's BOB based.
If you look at the picture, I have lifted a BOB head to where it would sit on a 4.0L block.
Can you see that where the tensioner goes it does not now line up.
An idea to try here would be to fit the other heads tensioner here as it's longer & you could machine the nylon tensioner so it would key in maybe?
Now you have a problem with the other one, the BOB & had a revised tensioner fitted in 1997 this is longer & you may be able to do the same as before. Don't forget the timing chain or chains will have to be made longer.
BOB Cossie
BOB Revised tensioner
The idea of fitting the BOA inlet is a bad one, we all know it's rubbish for a start & will seriously restrict the power of the engine + it won't fit.
Now at the same time as Cossie where re-doing the BOA engine to come up with the BOB they where working on a 4.0L version, I think that may be the BOB was designed with not only a better intake but one that would fit both engines with the view of fitting both.
The BOB fuel rails & plenum will fit the 4.0L. All that's needed is some slightly longer bits of pipe
The fuel rail & intake mounting is different to a BOA so BOB heads would have to be used.
Also the water pipes into the head are not too hard, the BOA has an inbuilt stat the BOB don't, I would use the BOA one. A simple plumbing job
BOB water pipies
BOA water & Fuel Rail
Crankshaft, rods and pistons
Just a quick comparaison of moving parts from both engines. Let's begin with the pistons :
The 4.0 is a bigger bore, as laready said, and the stock 95TM-AB pistons are dished quite a lot.
4.0L pistons
Cossie Pistons
The 4.0 is taller, the 4.0 rods are longer. You can also see the foot of the 4.0 rod is higher, but the 4.0 piston is even taller than it's cossie counterpart.
Engines are part of the Ford Cologne V6 family, but the 4.0 is a derivative block from the original cologne block originally found with a capacity of 2.3 or 2.8. It became later a 2.4 or 2.9, the later is commonly found in the Ford scorpio (Granada in UK). The 4.0 is an American Ford block, found in a Explorer for instance. I don't want to begin the discussion of the different versions of the 2.9 and 4.0 blocks, but I can tell you the 2.9 block I'm dismantling is a cosworth BOA block, and the 4.0 is a 95TM. The cosworth came in the versions BOA and BOB which can be easily differentiated by their respective intake manifold.
Please note this article is written with measureents in the metric system unless otherwise specified. Take also into account that in my country the driver is sitting at the left side of the car ! Finally, I apologize for all the crap on the engines.
Engine Block
Let's get started. Externally, the short blocks are already different as the 4.0 is a taller deck block. There's a difference of about 2 cm, that can easily be noticed when you put a cossie head and the front cover on the 4.0
Cossie
You can see the bolts holes of the cover fit the block in every place but in the lower one drivers side [font="Arial Black"](& one @ the back of the timing cover?)[/font]. Reboring another hole shouldn't be not a too tough a problem, but you will have to first fill the one existing in the 4.0 block. The difference in deck height brings another problem: the space between the head and the front cover means you will have to build some spacers but the shape of those is rectangular, meaning not too much hassle.
When you pull the front cover away, you can see the bolt holes needed to maintain the chain tensioner system are the same, so that's good news. Unfortunately, the 4.0 has two holes for oil feeding the mechanical chain tensioners. They have to be blocked. I would use some threaded plugs. The other problem is the missing stud protruding at the left of the crankshaft on the 2.9. You need it for the timing chain tensioner. Later on specific info about that.
4.0L Front
Cossie BOA
Cossie BOB
[font="Arial Black"]As you can see the BOA & BOB blocks are slightly different[/font]
The 4.0L camshaft and it's cossie counterpart, which runs the oil pump on both engines. First the bad news, the base circle is not the same, so the change over is not easy. We'll have to stick with the 4.0 camshaft, meaning we have to create an adapter to be able to attach the sprocket for the timing chain. The other bad news is that the camshaft that makes the distributor and the oil pump turn does so in the opposite way of the cosworth ! The thread of the 4.0L is inclined the other way, so we'll have to use a modified 4.0 distributor (to let the oil pump turn). It would be very interesting to see the parts in a 4.0 SOHC engine.
[font="Arial Black"]O.K the oil pumps on the 4.0L is the same design as the 24V indeed if you think about it the oil pump is the same basic type for the 2.9 12V 4.0 & Cossie engine's so should be no problems here:) The 4.0L's I have looked at do not have a distrubter they have a dummy drive just like the Cossie, just @ around 1996 it also has a cam sensor on it that you don't need. The jack shaft on the SOHC is no good either as it has a drive on it @ the rear for the cam.
So it's a pre 96 4.0L dummy drive with either oil pump + 4.0L drive oil shaft.[/font]
4.0L cam & Cossie dummy cam.
The distance, center to center, between the camshaft and the crank is about 14,5 cm on the 2.9 and 16,5 cm on the 4.0. This means the timming chain will be longer, also the block is taller.
Here are pictures of the block left and right side. A engine mount will have to be fabricated on the driver side to match the 2.9 motor mounts or a plate of some kind?
4.0L
Cossie
When turning the engines upside down, you can see infact that the 4.0 is wider than the 2.9, about 1cm. There's no way to put the sump of the cosworth on the 4.0L with out mods, most holes are not in the same place & it is not wide enough.
[font="Arial Black"]This would need some work a 4.0L sump can be used of course but it is a bit of a funny shape & unless you have alot of room can be a tight fit, any way you want to fit that 4x4 sump right
Also note that the 97 block has wider pan rails which should mean it's slightly stronger[/font]4.0L
Cossie BOA
Cossie BOB
I removed the crankshafts to better let you see the difference in block. It is important due to the crankshafts, 2.9 fits either but 2.9 block will not take the 4.0L one with out mods
Main diameters and spacing are the same on both blocks. It's also a good moment to look at the difference between the two reguarding the sump bolt holes.4.0L
BOA Bottom
BOB Bottom
You see how far the cylinders on the 2.9 blocks are coming down the block.
Cylinder heads
Good news, they fit:
On top, the water passages are not really at the same place, but if we look at the holes in the gaskets it appears to be O.K.
It's important to check this as overheating could be a problem.
It's not done yet but I can say the heads of the cosworth bolt with no hassle on the 4.0.
4.0L
Also note that some 4.0L blocks have slightly different water holes.
2.9 Blocks
Gaskets 4.0L Vs 2.9 12V
You can not use the 2.9 gasket however as the bore is too great on the 4.OL.
You can buy cylinder seals so that's an idea or get some made up, not mega money
The 2.9 head gasket. I decided to take such a picture to look at the effective use of the holes between the head and the block. My point is that the ones that are used are still open.
Have a closer look at the picture to see the size of the holes used for water passage. They have nothing to do with the head gasket as they are generally way smaller!
Hmm this could be the dodgy bit, the only real way to try it is to build a engine & see what happens but it does look O.K from what I can see
I decided to fit both heads. I will now try to adapt the stock timing chain tensioners. You can already see the heads are not as close as on the cossie, meaning the sock intake manifold, STD fuel rail (and the water return?) will not fit.
O.K another problem is the tensioner or tensioners if it's BOB based.
If you look at the picture, I have lifted a BOB head to where it would sit on a 4.0L block.
Can you see that where the tensioner goes it does not now line up.
An idea to try here would be to fit the other heads tensioner here as it's longer & you could machine the nylon tensioner so it would key in maybe?
Now you have a problem with the other one, the BOB & had a revised tensioner fitted in 1997 this is longer & you may be able to do the same as before. Don't forget the timing chain or chains will have to be made longer.
BOB Cossie
BOB Revised tensioner
The idea of fitting the BOA inlet is a bad one, we all know it's rubbish for a start & will seriously restrict the power of the engine + it won't fit.
Now at the same time as Cossie where re-doing the BOA engine to come up with the BOB they where working on a 4.0L version, I think that may be the BOB was designed with not only a better intake but one that would fit both engines with the view of fitting both.
The BOB fuel rails & plenum will fit the 4.0L. All that's needed is some slightly longer bits of pipe
The fuel rail & intake mounting is different to a BOA so BOB heads would have to be used.
Also the water pipes into the head are not too hard, the BOA has an inbuilt stat the BOB don't, I would use the BOA one. A simple plumbing job
BOB water pipies
BOA water & Fuel Rail
Crankshaft, rods and pistons
Just a quick comparaison of moving parts from both engines. Let's begin with the pistons :
The 4.0 is a bigger bore, as laready said, and the stock 95TM-AB pistons are dished quite a lot.
4.0L pistons
Cossie Pistons
The 4.0 is taller, the 4.0 rods are longer. You can also see the foot of the 4.0 rod is higher, but the 4.0 piston is even taller than it's cossie counterpart.
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Taps
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4.0L to a 24V continued . . .
The crankshafts have the same length, but the front of them is different. The rear are the same though, so we'll be able to directly fit the 2.9 flywheel. Both of them are showing their capacity on the second counterweight.
The 96TM crank has the same nose as the Cossie one & a 6 bolt flywheel but the 97TM one has a 8 bolt fly wheel.
You will not be able to put a 4.0L crank in the 2.9 block with out alot of work.
Timing chain and tensioners.
Let's begin with the sprockets. For the crank sprocket, you can already see the difference between the 2.9 and the 4.0. You need a 4.0L 96TM crank.
If you don't it looks like this.
Cam cog or jack shaft cog 4.0L Vrs BOB cossie.
Things to note is the cossie one is not keyed, it is held tight by a left hand threaded bolt.
The 4.0L is keyed & has a normal bolt.
You can see that if you get the 4.0L cam manchined down to the same spec as the cossie one the sprocket will fit but remember it needs to be keyed as the normal bolt will come undone.
O.K we have a problem here, the way the cossie drives this shaft is the opposite way to the 4.0L hence the drive to the oil pump would be backwards if you used the 4.0L cam.
The pump only works the one way.
The only soluction is to use the cossie jack shaft & to have spacers made so the shaft fits in to the bigger 4.0L holes. i.e spacers with shells fitted pressed into block & fixed.
Remember there is an oil feed.
Also the SOHC uses bearing's for it's shaft maybe they fit?
O.k. as we look at the timming chains one thing appears to be clear that the BOA gear will be hard to fit due to the fact it's a double chain & the way it drives the jack shaft.
BOA gear fitted to 4.0L block.
So the easy option is BOB stuff, not the strongest set up but mods can be done to make it O.K.
BOB right
You can see the right side consist of 3 guides, the big one will fit, the upper middle one will almost but may need some work where it bolts to the head & also the small one near the crank needs a mounting. The bolt hole is there but the pin hole is not, not hard to do thow.
BOB Left
You can see the guides for the left are located on the cover. Simple if you base your cover on the BOB one.
Now the BOB uses 2 chain tensioner located in each head because the 4.0L block is taller these will not now line up with the BOB guides. The guide will have to be modded to accept the tensioner's higher.
X shows the problem areas.
Now the chains need to be made longer as the block is taller.
Using BOB timming gear means you have to use BOB heads which is good as the BOB fuel rails & inlet will now just bolt on with 2 bits of slightly longer pipe.
Sump, well could use the STD 4.0L one fitted with head oil returns or the 4.0L SOHC one if you want it to rev higher but both may give clearence problems in a car.
A modded 4wd one could be made to fit as the 4.0L block is wider, not that hard
Oh & don't forget to fill in the holes at the top of the block, round ones are easy enough but the long oblong one hmmm I will leave that to you.
Job would just about be done now & you would be well on your way to finishing
O.K. to sum up.
A 95 - 96 4.0L engine.
Any BOB 24V
A few BOA parts.
24V dummy cam modded for 4.0L bearing/shell block spacers & a 24V dummy distrubter drive.
24V front chain cover modded to fit 4.0L block. BOB or BOA possible.
Longer 24V BOB chains & slightly modded timming gear.
Custom 24V head gaskets with 101mm bores (cheaper than you think).
Some BOA pipe work to dump the horrible BOB stat.
BOB heads, cams, fuel rail & inlet.
Sump & how to fill in the follower, block holes?
& a left hand engine mount made & all the fun of fitting it in a car.
Err & that's about it simple isn't it
Infact I would say it would be alot cheaper to build this engine rather than a bored & stroked 2.9 block to 3.7L
Also a stroked 3.7 can be a bit flat in it's response due to it's square dimensions the 4.0L will be better & also more reliable due to the bad rod angles on a 3.7 also.
The crankshafts have the same length, but the front of them is different. The rear are the same though, so we'll be able to directly fit the 2.9 flywheel. Both of them are showing their capacity on the second counterweight.
The 96TM crank has the same nose as the Cossie one & a 6 bolt flywheel but the 97TM one has a 8 bolt fly wheel.
You will not be able to put a 4.0L crank in the 2.9 block with out alot of work.
Timing chain and tensioners.
Let's begin with the sprockets. For the crank sprocket, you can already see the difference between the 2.9 and the 4.0. You need a 4.0L 96TM crank.
If you don't it looks like this.
Cam cog or jack shaft cog 4.0L Vrs BOB cossie.
Things to note is the cossie one is not keyed, it is held tight by a left hand threaded bolt.
The 4.0L is keyed & has a normal bolt.
You can see that if you get the 4.0L cam manchined down to the same spec as the cossie one the sprocket will fit but remember it needs to be keyed as the normal bolt will come undone.
O.K we have a problem here, the way the cossie drives this shaft is the opposite way to the 4.0L hence the drive to the oil pump would be backwards if you used the 4.0L cam.
The pump only works the one way.
The only soluction is to use the cossie jack shaft & to have spacers made so the shaft fits in to the bigger 4.0L holes. i.e spacers with shells fitted pressed into block & fixed.
Remember there is an oil feed.
Also the SOHC uses bearing's for it's shaft maybe they fit?
O.k. as we look at the timming chains one thing appears to be clear that the BOA gear will be hard to fit due to the fact it's a double chain & the way it drives the jack shaft.
BOA gear fitted to 4.0L block.
So the easy option is BOB stuff, not the strongest set up but mods can be done to make it O.K.
BOB right
You can see the right side consist of 3 guides, the big one will fit, the upper middle one will almost but may need some work where it bolts to the head & also the small one near the crank needs a mounting. The bolt hole is there but the pin hole is not, not hard to do thow.
BOB Left
You can see the guides for the left are located on the cover. Simple if you base your cover on the BOB one.
Now the BOB uses 2 chain tensioner located in each head because the 4.0L block is taller these will not now line up with the BOB guides. The guide will have to be modded to accept the tensioner's higher.
X shows the problem areas.
Now the chains need to be made longer as the block is taller.
Using BOB timming gear means you have to use BOB heads which is good as the BOB fuel rails & inlet will now just bolt on with 2 bits of slightly longer pipe.
Sump, well could use the STD 4.0L one fitted with head oil returns or the 4.0L SOHC one if you want it to rev higher but both may give clearence problems in a car.
A modded 4wd one could be made to fit as the 4.0L block is wider, not that hard
Oh & don't forget to fill in the holes at the top of the block, round ones are easy enough but the long oblong one hmmm I will leave that to you.
Job would just about be done now & you would be well on your way to finishing
O.K. to sum up.
A 95 - 96 4.0L engine.
Any BOB 24V
A few BOA parts.
24V dummy cam modded for 4.0L bearing/shell block spacers & a 24V dummy distrubter drive.
24V front chain cover modded to fit 4.0L block. BOB or BOA possible.
Longer 24V BOB chains & slightly modded timming gear.
Custom 24V head gaskets with 101mm bores (cheaper than you think).
Some BOA pipe work to dump the horrible BOB stat.
BOB heads, cams, fuel rail & inlet.
Sump & how to fill in the follower, block holes?
& a left hand engine mount made & all the fun of fitting it in a car.
Err & that's about it simple isn't it
Infact I would say it would be alot cheaper to build this engine rather than a bored & stroked 2.9 block to 3.7L
Also a stroked 3.7 can be a bit flat in it's response due to it's square dimensions the 4.0L will be better & also more reliable due to the bad rod angles on a 3.7 also.
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GeneticRehab
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BassnTruck
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I am going to bring this thread back from the dead. I want to put a more modern motor in the Scorpio for more power but mainly more efficiency. Plus getting an OD trans would be icing on the cake. I really do not want to dump a lot of cash into the 2.9. It runs OK but it is leaking everywhere and the MPG and power is blah. The more I read the more simple it sounds. I want to keep the auto trans. So an auto Ranger or Explorer donor would be perfect. I am not new to swapping drive trains into other things. So putting the donor harness and ECU would be easy if you ask me. I can not come up with any real reason it will not all but just about bolt up and drop into a Scorpio. I was first thinking about a 3.8 but a SOHC 4.0 would be easier on many levels. Plus going with a newer motor and ecu would be legal in any state. Not that I have that problem. I found a semi local wrecked 01 Explorer sport for a reasonable amount with 50k on it. Only downfall is it is a 4x4. But I may be able to fab something to keep the low mileage trans unless I find a 4x2 trans cheap. I am just waiting for him to get back to me about the Explorer.
It seems most agree it should not be that hard.
It seems most agree it should not be that hard.
0 Merkurs left.
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DPDISXR4Ti
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Always better to bring an existing thread back up to the top than start a new one on the same topic. 
I've also been giving some thought to this topic, as I recently brought home a T-9 (and all related parts) from a Scorpio. A 5-speed Cologne V6 swap into a XR would be a piece of cake.
I'll probably offer it up for sale, but it won't be cheap. I damn near put myself in the hospital fetching this one.
I've also been giving some thought to this topic, as I recently brought home a T-9 (and all related parts) from a Scorpio. A 5-speed Cologne V6 swap into a XR would be a piece of cake.
I'll probably offer it up for sale, but it won't be cheap. I damn near put myself in the hospital fetching this one.
Brad
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milehighXR
- Level 7
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- Joined: Tue Mar 23, 2004 8:17 pm
- Location: Longmont, Co
You do realize that the factory A4LD is an OD trans. The 5R55E, gets a new 2nd gear by activating the OD a second time. All other gear ratios are identical to the A4, they just occur later in sequence, old 2 is new 3rd, old 3 is new 4th, and old 4th is now 5th...BassnTruck wrote:I am going to bring this thread back from the dead. I want to put a more modern motor in the Scorpio for more power but mainly more efficiency. Plus getting an OD trans would be icing on the cake. I really do not want to dump a lot of cash into the 2.9. It runs OK but it is leaking everywhere and the MPG and power is blah. The more I read the more simple it sounds. I want to keep the auto trans. So an auto Ranger or Explorer donor would be perfect. I am not new to swapping drive trains into other things. So putting the donor harness and ECU would be easy if you ask me. I can not come up with any real reason it will not all but just about bolt up and drop into a Scorpio. I was first thinking about a 3.8 but a SOHC 4.0 would be easier on many levels. Plus going with a newer motor and ecu would be legal in any state. Not that I have that problem. I found a semi local wrecked 01 Explorer sport for a reasonable amount with 50k on it. Only downfall is it is a 4x4. But I may be able to fab something to keep the low mileage trans unless I find a 4x2 trans cheap. I am just waiting for him to get back to me about the Explorer.
It seems most agree it should not be that hard.
Johnny
1 86 XR aka Naomi- my first love, now daily driven project
DCLXVI
1 86 XR aka Naomi- my first love, now daily driven project
DCLXVI
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BassnTruck
- Level 2
- Posts: 119
- Joined: Tue Jan 13, 2004 12:14 am
- Location: Kansas City
After looking some stuff up you are correct about them basically having the same ratios minus the "new" second gear but turning on the OD and splitting 1st gear. I am not sure I would want to put an a4ld behind a sohc 4.0 though. So it would just make better sense to install the 5R55E ad not worry about a questionable transmission behind a motor with 60+hp and 80+ft-lbs. If ya have the new transmission why not install it?
0 Merkurs left.
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milehighXR
- Level 7
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- Joined: Tue Mar 23, 2004 8:17 pm
- Location: Longmont, Co
And bring the car out to my place on Aug 8th for my hootenanny...