88 Scorpio

[Ed Lijewski]

Antonio Boschi-- "Giu Bo"--would laugh uproariously as well as possibly sneer at your oily escapist rationalization for endorsing the mispronunciation of his patented creation.

By the way, where in American English are any examples of "gui", other than gooey, which ironically well describes the tortuous path of your usage rationalization, where you dismiss the IMON minority correctly using Giubo as inconsequential against the larger number mistakenly parroting the mistakes of other hoi polloi as defacto emanating from multilingual experts...but then that's what has come to be expected from the monolingual majority of native born Americans fearful of standing up boldly in the easy effort to correct historical errors.

YMMV

[my8950]

.
I believe when new the filter material was either a color similar to as shown cleaned or possibly another color than changes into that when submerged in gasoline over time. XR and Scorpio filter colors match, so same material.

Discoloration isn't crud. There are loads of posted pics of true crud on removed XR filters.

I thoughly/Thoroughly cleaned that filter. There were some black deposits inside in a few areas that required extra effort to dislodge (the filter did its job).

The filter material is very strong/resistant to rips or tears. The rip in Noah's Dad's filter looks to result from bench handling.

The screen was pretty crispy when it came out of the tank, but yes, handling it pushed it over the edge.

[my8950]

Did some cleaning to see how much of a difference I could make in a short amount of time.

[my8950]

A few of after...Car must have been outside under a tree for a significant amount of time, with the hatch open, all of the paint is black with tree leaves and crap, much like this black stuff that is shown on spoiler. I used a toothbrush and scrubbed with simple green, it's quite a bit better now.

[Ed Lijewski]

A tip from experience with these cars:
.
Clean out the normal road crud that accumulates behind the wheel arches at the top of the rubber inner gravel protector.

The DS arch in your photo looks unmolested by rust from behind, but you can be assured that unless the area mentioned isn't blasted clean with water and air and maybe a thin long brush, crud eventually accumulates there and wil promote hidden oxidation.

Most all Brit owners of Granadas have experienced rust behind wheel arches and as well under door sills, for reasons both of the typical wer English weather and that none ever thought to clean out the area noted above.

YMMV

[my8950]

A tip from experience with these cars:
.
Clean out the normal road crud that accumulates behind the wheel arches at the top of the rubber inner gravel protector.

The DS arch in your photo looks unmolested by rust from behind, but you can be assured that unless the area mentioned isn't blasted clean with water and air and maybe a thin long brush, crud eventually accumulates there and wil promote hidden oxidation.

Most all Brit owners of Granadas have experienced rust behind wheel arches and as well under door sills, for reasons both of the typical wer English weather and that none ever thought to clean out the area noted above.

YMMV

Yeah, this was a quick and dirty check.
I'll put this on the hoist and powerwas it from the bottom, and then do the top.
It needs a good cleaning, but no rust.

[my8950]

Steering rack leaks and needs a tune up...
https://www.instagram.com/p/DFl3sx1ub3p ... ZiZg%3D%3D

[DPDISXR4Ti]

Clean out the normal road crud that accumulates behind the wheel arches at the top of the rubber inner gravel protector.

I agree. It's essentially impossible to keep crud out of there. If the car won't be driven in the winter, it's not that big of a deal since the crud won't be laced with evil salt. If the car is driven in the rust-belt, an annual spring cleaning (if not more frequent) is very important.

Since my rear liners were junk, I took a different approach when I fitted Focus liners. I cut the liners about a 1/2" short along the wheel lip so that I can easily squirt a stream of water in there at any time to flush out the salty sludge. Prior to that I had thoroughly cleaned and re-coated the wheel well with some rust guard black paint. I also squirt the area with WD-40 from the inside whenever I happen to have the side covers off in the hatch area.

[my8950]

New steering rack installed, filled with fluid.
Took for a ride and seems to go and stop very good, just driving around neighborhood so not enough to get into overdrive, otherwise, seems to be just swell.

[Ed Lijewski]

4th actuates +/- 45‐50 mph.

YMMV

[my8950]

4th actuates +/- 45‐50 mph.

YMMV

Yeah, not getting anywhere near that in the neighborhood.

[Ed Lijewski]

otherwise, seems to be just swell.

Pop off the vent vane covers to see if the doors are "swell" too. (Hearing motors works and doors reak means nothing re if they are "swell".

YMMV

[brokencase]

Ed is right. I thought mine were fine by listening to the motors but it turned out my driver side flap was twisted and jammed. It is easy to pull the vents/bezel to check. 5 minute job.

Even if not broken, the flaps do not work very well and obstruct flow through the ducts even when open. In addition the foam surrounds around the flaps have degraded at this point.

Based on Ed's recommendation I have removed the vents and A/C performance is much improved. In addition I had 3d printed new "low restriction" vents deflectors.

The compromise is that for Winter defrost you need to close the vents to re-direct air to the windshield.

At some point I plan to swap out the original flap motors and replace with small stepper motors with 3d printed parts.

We discussed all this in the following thread.
https://forum.merkurclub.com/forum/view ... hp?t=43342

The original vent motors don't employ limit switches. They rely on the motors stalling when the vent reaches its stop point.
It is a shame that they did not utilize the design idea explained in the attached pdf.

[Ed Lijewski]

The vent motors don't employ limit switches. They rely on the motors stalling when the vent reaches its stop point.

And over time that point gets a bit longer and longer as the door flap material weakens, and warps or even cracks.

YMMV

[brokencase]

Ed, Question.

Are all three vent door motor units the same and interchangeable?