Duratec / Mazda L-Series MZR I4 2.0 / 2.3 / 2.5 Swap

[DRHaulsee]

The factory PCM's are full sequential. For a port injection they use the cam signal to decide if the #1 cylinder is on the firing stroke or exhaust stroke. They the only fire 1 coil (no wasted spark) and to properly time injection to increase idle quality. I don't know why Ford uses multiple teeth.

On a direct injection car injection timing must be tightly controlled. If the cam sensor doesn't work a DI engine won't run. I've had that happen on one of my Mazdaspeeds.

[DPDISXR4Ti]

The factory PCM's are full sequential.

I see that Speeduino is also sequential (up to 4-cyl), but I guess they are able to do it in a less sophisticated way with just the one tooth, similar to the old-school cam sensors found on engines such as the Lima 2.5 and Cologne 4.0.

[DPDISXR4Ti]

I just added this guy to the vendor list (second post in this thread). He only sells via eBay. It's a gasket/adapter that more readily allows mounting a 2.3 Duratec intake manifold to a 2.5. He sells it in 1/8" or 5/8" thickness. The 5/8" version could perhaps allow port-matching on either end. Remember, the bolt pattern is the same between the 2.3 and 2.5, but the ports are located and sized just a little differently. Apparently the 5/8" version also addresses a space conflict between the VCT solenoid on the 2.5 engine and the intake manifold.

https://www.ebay.com/str/speedshop505

[DPDISXR4Ti]

Looking for a better alternative to the Esslinger SBF adapter for the Duratec, I have pushed this along to hopefully happen sooner rather than later.

https://forum.merkurclub.net/forum/view ... hp?t=44198

[DPDISXR4Ti]

Very thorough thread on swapping in a 2.5 for a 2.0 in a NC MX-5 Miata. Much of it won't apply for us as the Miata starts out with a Duratec 2.0, but there's a lot of useful info in there.

https://nasaspeed.news/tech/engine/as-c ... -2-5-swap/

[DPDISXR4Ti]

From the Duratec/MZR 2.5 Swap Revolution page on FB....

Erik Ramirez
Im running 15psi making 373rwhp on a 2018 ford fusion 2.5 from lkq. Balance shaft and vct delete with Esslinger Engineering delete kit. Stock ring gap. 80#deka injectors, stinger performance PiMP computer. Mazda smart coils, treadstone intercooler, I made my intake and turbo header, and a turbo from @bigrmotorsports.com
Fuel rail from radium to make it a return style fuel system. Kirban fuel regulator with @bigrmotorsports.com regulator adapter block. Also use a
Turbosmart turbo oil regulator which only allows 40psi to go to the turbo. You will need to feed the excess back to the engine. I used a ford 2v throttle body

[DPDISXR4Ti]

This kit, from TTS Performance, utilizes a Rotrex C30-94 supercharger to make 330HP on a 2.0 Duratec with 13.5 (.9 bar) of boost pressure.
https://rotrex.com/centrifugal-supercha ... d-duratec/

Unfortunately, they don't offer it any more, but they may be bringing it back. You can reach out to TTS at: [email protected]

I believe the kit would work with the 2.3 and 2.5 as well as the 2.0.

<Edit May 2026>
These guys in Poland are working on a kit to put a Rotrex in a Mazda MX-5 NC. As you may know, the MX-5/Miata NC uses a Duratec 2.0. They have confirmed to me that they will sell just the mounting bracket for those of us doing a DIY build. Again, the nice thing about a SC (vs. turbo) is that you can build as a N/A setup initially and more readily do the boosted portion of the build later once you're already driving the car down the road, with no need to do anything to the exhaust side.
https://madfabworx.com/
https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100085462249712

[DPDISXR4Ti]

Just a little data-point (I think I've got all the details right).... The Duratec started using diamond-encrusted lock-washers on the crank pulley starting with the introduction of the 2.5 in 2010. They also started using them on the cam pulleys starting in 2017. These special lock washers can be retroactively fitted to any Duratec/MZR and are available from several vendors. They are especially recommended for manual transmission vehicles where the shock-loads are higher). Officially, they are a "one use" item, sorta like a TTY bolt.

[my8950]

Just a little data-point (I think I've got all the details right).... The Duratec started using diamond-encrusted lock-washers on the crank pulley starting with the introduction of the 2.5 in 2010. They also started using them on the cam pulleys starting in 2017. These special lock washers can be retroactively fitted to any Duratec/MZR and are available from several vendors. They are especially recommended for manual transmission vehicles where the shock-loads are higher). Officially, they are a "one use" item, sorta like a TTY bolt.

Technically they could be implemented on anything then that is older but would benefit from this bonus feature...

[DPDISXR4Ti]

Another little tid-bit from Brian at Esslinger. It has to do with mixing and matching parts between the Ford and Mazda versions of these motors. Keep in mind, while the basic engines are the same, the electronics differ. If using an after-market Engine Management System (EMS), you can have a mix of sensors and solenoids from the two vendors (Ford & Mazda), and there are good reasons for doing so. Take a look back at Don Haulsee's posts if you need a refresher on that topic.

the Mazda VCT solenoid is the same as the Pre-2013 Ford VCT solenoid. To use a 2013-up Ford VCT head, the solenoid got smaller so you will need to replace the seal in the Mazda valvecover. It's super easy and done by hand. You can purchase a new seal from your Ford dealer for the model year of your engine and it will work in the Mazda cover. The O.D. of all the VCT seals is the same. Only the I.D. changes to match the solenoid used

MazdaCamPositionSensor.jpg

Keep in mind, if you want to use the better 3-wire Mazda "smart" coils (COP), you need to use the Mazda valve cover. That's what led to this ^^ conversation.

[DPDISXR4Ti]

What water pump to use? Increasingly, many are opting for electric, with the Davies Craig EWP150 being the hot ticket. It only draws a maximum of 10A, so not a big load at all.
https://motionraceworks.com/products/co ... LMOfX1jHH

If staying conventional, the 2.3 Ecoboost pump is the one to get. Motorcraft PW578
The improved blade design has better flow, and reduces cavitation at high rpm.

[DPDISXR4Ti]

It would probably be worth having a separate thread on "tuning" with an after-market PCM, but for now I'll drop this in here. For now, I haven't yet decided what to use for my engine management system (EMS), only that I will NOT be using a factory PCM of some sort. I'm currently favoring either SpeedyEFI (https://speedyefi.com/) or rusEFI (https://rusefi.com/). Both use TunerStudio software for tuning. Here's a good guide to getting started with TunerStudio...
https://wiki.rusefi.com/Get-tuning-with ... ur-rusEFI/

[DPDISXR4Ti]

Another data-point for today... Being a modern engine, most all of the Duratec / MZR engines use a return-less fuel system. That can provide some challenges when retrofitting in an older car that was designed with a return fuel system. You can get a custom fuel rail that has a provision for a return fitting, but if you want to use the factory fuel rail you can use an after-market fuel pressure regulator that has a return built into it.

Prices are all over the map. Here's the China-cheap version from Amazon...
https://www.amazon.com/YESHMA-Pressure- ... r=8-3&th=1


Some further discussion on this ^^^ topic suggests that this solution is not ideal. You really are better off feeding the fuel in one end and bleeding it out the other, as most manufacturers did through the 80's and 90's. It's easy enough to add a return fitting to a stock rail or buy the after-market Radium rail which has fittings on both ends.

The worst approach would be to use an early Duratec 2.0 rail which has a fitting between 2 or 3. In factory configuration, that fitting was used for something else and it is not suitable to use that as a return location.

[DPDISXR4Ti]

It's been suggested to me that I should consider a MS3Pro Mini ECU as my Standalone EFI computer. Conveniently enough, it's sold by one of our sponsors, Stinger Performance Engineering.

https://www.stinger-performance.com/sto ... o-mini-ecu

Just thought I'd throw it out there.