"Ray's AKA demonfire's XR4Ti build up"

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Ray
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Post by Ray »

there is no real way to angle the turbo itself without angling the manifold flange, the turbo flange, or the motor.

I have a stock location mount header. I'll make it work. I figure a bigger outlet off the turbo will negate any ill effect from having a tighter radius bend right there. that's not saying a straight shot out would be ideal, but we have to deal with not ideal all too often.

I'll keep you posted on progress.
-Ray
1985 Ford F150 - Tow Missile
1985 Merkur XR4Ti -#141 CP "Miss Daisy"
2005 Subaru LGT
http://www.cartct.com
NiggyMerk
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Post by NiggyMerk »

Do you have any overheating issues with your Essy pully?
1987 Xr4ti (Rosso Red) - LA3, Big VAM, Cossie exhaust housing,
Cosworth 2wd IC, Turbo back 3" exhaust with Magnaflow muffler,
TC rear disc brakes

Nick
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Ray
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Post by Ray »

No, i dont. The car (with the fan on) wont get above 180 degrees. During a run, the car normally doesn't get above 205 or 210 degrees. I do have to have my fan on during an autocross run, however.

Of course, i did clean the entire cooling system when i put the car together to make sure no gunk was clogging any passage. I also use some water wetter in my 50/50 mix to further help cooling.

The main problem i have with the essy pullies is that it's so underdriven i have to bring the rpm to about 2700 to get the damned alternator to turn on, and then, at idle, the alternator can barely support brake lights. I have to side step the throttle slightly to bring the rpm to 1100 or 1200 to get any juice out of it. Quite annoying.

I sent an email to a place that custom machines pullies, waiting for a reply.
-Ray
1985 Ford F150 - Tow Missile
1985 Merkur XR4Ti -#141 CP "Miss Daisy"
2005 Subaru LGT
http://www.cartct.com
BeefFajitas
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Post by BeefFajitas »

I haven't had any problems with my UD pulley. My FAST system is very sensitive to low voltage, it might be a problem with driving big injectors, but the car would barely run without the alternator on. When I first started the car after all the work I did, I forgot that the alternator gets its excitation through the dash, and that was still unplugged at the time. Anyway, the car runs fine with the UD pulley on there now.
-Nate
'85 Merk. Back together. Only thing stock is the head and block.
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Ray
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Post by Ray »

nate can i bypass that so the damned thing turns on right away?

anyway, broke my t handle on the tap tool threading that hardened bolt for the cossie turbine housing. ended up using vice grips to grab the tool to finish the job.

new radiator came in today :) special thanks to merkur depot for having these made.

Image
-Ray
1985 Ford F150 - Tow Missile
1985 Merkur XR4Ti -#141 CP "Miss Daisy"
2005 Subaru LGT
http://www.cartct.com
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merkurdriver
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Post by merkurdriver »

demonfire wrote:
Image
:headbang: Glad it finally made it to you!
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DPDISXR4Ti
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Post by DPDISXR4Ti »

demonfire wrote:new radiator came in today :) special thanks to merkur depot for having these made.
Image
That's an interesting mounting location Ray. But will you be able to close the hood?
Brad
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Ray
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Post by Ray »

Brad - yes. I'm going to close it as far as it goes, then duct tape the rest to a scoop for extra turbo cooling.

I'm also going to route my exhaust thru the roof instead for more downforce.

Got the bumper, crash bar, and grill off after dinner tonight. hope to get the radiator out, the oil cooler out, and the turbo out this weekend so i can install the cossie housing. weather looks to be crap tho - clear, but highs in the teens. i'm happy i have a shop but it's really expensive to heat it with the industrial kerosene jet engine i bought.

oh, and i'm going to get a kill switch for my battery.
-Ray
1985 Ford F150 - Tow Missile
1985 Merkur XR4Ti -#141 CP "Miss Daisy"
2005 Subaru LGT
http://www.cartct.com
BeefFajitas
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Post by BeefFajitas »

Not sure. I re-did my gauges and rewired the alt light/feed as per the wiring diagram. The light bulb (a resistor itself) is in parallel to a resistor. I'm not sure what would happen if you bypassed all that. It might short out somewhere. The light bulb gets lit up because one side goes to ground. Remove the resistor and you've got a short.

How old is your alt? It may just be on its way out. Maybe. Sort of. ???

I usually have to give mine a little rev to kick it on (otherwise the car runs like crap), but I don't remember having to get it above 2400 rpm. That seems a little excessive. That was even before the UD pulley too.
-Nate
'85 Merk. Back together. Only thing stock is the head and block.
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DPDISXR4Ti
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Post by DPDISXR4Ti »

Ray, if you're going to replace the VR, might just as well replace it with an adjustable one from these guys:

http://www.davebarton.com/AdjustableVoltage.html

Just check on whether you need a 28mm or 32mm - anyone know for sure?
Brad
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Ray
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Post by Ray »

Well, i can just take mine and measure it?
-Ray
1985 Ford F150 - Tow Missile
1985 Merkur XR4Ti -#141 CP "Miss Daisy"
2005 Subaru LGT
http://www.cartct.com
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Ray
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Post by Ray »

Joe came by this evening (we're gonna play darts now)

Last night got the bumper, crash beam, and grill out.

This evening, got the coolant drained, downpipe out, turbo out, and radiator out. started to pull the bolts for the turbo center section to turbine housing. What size bolts are those? looks like m8 x 1.25 but might be x 1.50? also, what length?

Need some suggestions for the extra two coolant lines on the manual stock radiator. dont really WANT to drill and thread fittings into my brandy new radiator, but i might have to to ease the process.
-Ray
1985 Ford F150 - Tow Missile
1985 Merkur XR4Ti -#141 CP "Miss Daisy"
2005 Subaru LGT
http://www.cartct.com
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merkurdriver
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Post by merkurdriver »

demonfire wrote:
Need some suggestions for the extra two coolant lines on the manual stock radiator. dont really WANT to drill and thread fittings into my brandy new radiator, but i might have to to ease the process.
Copy the automatic XR hose set-up. Get the "Y hose" from the auto and you'll be set. Factory fit/finish. Simplified cooling system, and no drilling / tapping a brand new part.

Check out the FAQ's here:
http://merkur.50megs.com/photo2_2.html

BAT has the best price on the "Y hose" BRAND NEW, for a used one ask blugg as I am all out of them here at the moment.
DSPXR4ti
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Post by DSPXR4ti »

merkurdriver wrote:
demonfire wrote:
Need some suggestions for the extra two coolant lines on the manual stock radiator. dont really WANT to drill and thread fittings into my brandy new radiator, but i might have to to ease the process.
Copy the automatic XR hose set-up. Get the "Y hose" from the auto and you'll be set. Factory fit/finish. Simplified cooling system, and no drilling / tapping a brand new part.

Check out the FAQ's here:
http://merkur.50megs.com/photo2_2.html

BAT has the best price on the "Y hose" BRAND NEW, for a used one ask blugg as I am all out of them here at the moment.
Wait a minute! did the stock automatic XR come with a different hose set up? which hoses can I eliminate? and are there any pic's?

Ben
85 DSP XR4ti, 2009 Solo 2 National Champion, burns muffler, 3in exhaust, Mc2 Full suspension, 325 hps & 328tqr, GMR Intake, Wilwood brakes, Eaton LSD, stand alone ECU. Working on being SM National Champion.
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merkurdriver
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Post by merkurdriver »

DSPXR4ti wrote:
Wait a minute! did the stock automatic XR come with a different hose set up?
Yes, stock 85-88 auto XRs came with a slightly different hose set up that used less hoses. I'll see if I can dig up a pic, if not I'll go outside and take one...