"Ray's AKA demonfire's XR4Ti build up"
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Ray
- Level 7

- Posts: 4338
- Joined: Sun Oct 24, 2004 10:40 am
- Location: CT, USA
there is no real way to angle the turbo itself without angling the manifold flange, the turbo flange, or the motor.
I have a stock location mount header. I'll make it work. I figure a bigger outlet off the turbo will negate any ill effect from having a tighter radius bend right there. that's not saying a straight shot out would be ideal, but we have to deal with not ideal all too often.
I'll keep you posted on progress.
I have a stock location mount header. I'll make it work. I figure a bigger outlet off the turbo will negate any ill effect from having a tighter radius bend right there. that's not saying a straight shot out would be ideal, but we have to deal with not ideal all too often.
I'll keep you posted on progress.
-Ray
1985 Ford F150 - Tow Missile
1985 Merkur XR4Ti -#141 CP "Miss Daisy"
2005 Subaru LGT
http://www.cartct.com
1985 Ford F150 - Tow Missile
1985 Merkur XR4Ti -#141 CP "Miss Daisy"
2005 Subaru LGT
http://www.cartct.com
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NiggyMerk
- Level 4

- Posts: 478
- Joined: Wed Feb 25, 2009 11:49 am
- Location: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
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Ray
- Level 7

- Posts: 4338
- Joined: Sun Oct 24, 2004 10:40 am
- Location: CT, USA
No, i dont. The car (with the fan on) wont get above 180 degrees. During a run, the car normally doesn't get above 205 or 210 degrees. I do have to have my fan on during an autocross run, however.
Of course, i did clean the entire cooling system when i put the car together to make sure no gunk was clogging any passage. I also use some water wetter in my 50/50 mix to further help cooling.
The main problem i have with the essy pullies is that it's so underdriven i have to bring the rpm to about 2700 to get the damned alternator to turn on, and then, at idle, the alternator can barely support brake lights. I have to side step the throttle slightly to bring the rpm to 1100 or 1200 to get any juice out of it. Quite annoying.
I sent an email to a place that custom machines pullies, waiting for a reply.
Of course, i did clean the entire cooling system when i put the car together to make sure no gunk was clogging any passage. I also use some water wetter in my 50/50 mix to further help cooling.
The main problem i have with the essy pullies is that it's so underdriven i have to bring the rpm to about 2700 to get the damned alternator to turn on, and then, at idle, the alternator can barely support brake lights. I have to side step the throttle slightly to bring the rpm to 1100 or 1200 to get any juice out of it. Quite annoying.
I sent an email to a place that custom machines pullies, waiting for a reply.
-Ray
1985 Ford F150 - Tow Missile
1985 Merkur XR4Ti -#141 CP "Miss Daisy"
2005 Subaru LGT
http://www.cartct.com
1985 Ford F150 - Tow Missile
1985 Merkur XR4Ti -#141 CP "Miss Daisy"
2005 Subaru LGT
http://www.cartct.com
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BeefFajitas
- Level 6

- Posts: 886
- Joined: Mon Jan 12, 2004 2:15 pm
- Location: MA
I haven't had any problems with my UD pulley. My FAST system is very sensitive to low voltage, it might be a problem with driving big injectors, but the car would barely run without the alternator on. When I first started the car after all the work I did, I forgot that the alternator gets its excitation through the dash, and that was still unplugged at the time. Anyway, the car runs fine with the UD pulley on there now.
-Nate
'85 Merk. Back together. Only thing stock is the head and block.
'85 Merk. Back together. Only thing stock is the head and block.
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Ray
- Level 7

- Posts: 4338
- Joined: Sun Oct 24, 2004 10:40 am
- Location: CT, USA
nate can i bypass that so the damned thing turns on right away?
anyway, broke my t handle on the tap tool threading that hardened bolt for the cossie turbine housing. ended up using vice grips to grab the tool to finish the job.
new radiator came in today
special thanks to merkur depot for having these made.

anyway, broke my t handle on the tap tool threading that hardened bolt for the cossie turbine housing. ended up using vice grips to grab the tool to finish the job.
new radiator came in today

-Ray
1985 Ford F150 - Tow Missile
1985 Merkur XR4Ti -#141 CP "Miss Daisy"
2005 Subaru LGT
http://www.cartct.com
1985 Ford F150 - Tow Missile
1985 Merkur XR4Ti -#141 CP "Miss Daisy"
2005 Subaru LGT
http://www.cartct.com
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merkurdriver
- Level 8
- Posts: 6432
- Joined: Tue Jan 21, 2003 4:29 pm
- Location: Northeast Ohio
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DPDISXR4Ti
- Site Admin
- Posts: 15622
- Joined: Wed Jan 08, 2003 11:40 pm
- Location: New York
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Ray
- Level 7

- Posts: 4338
- Joined: Sun Oct 24, 2004 10:40 am
- Location: CT, USA
Brad - yes. I'm going to close it as far as it goes, then duct tape the rest to a scoop for extra turbo cooling.
I'm also going to route my exhaust thru the roof instead for more downforce.
Got the bumper, crash bar, and grill off after dinner tonight. hope to get the radiator out, the oil cooler out, and the turbo out this weekend so i can install the cossie housing. weather looks to be crap tho - clear, but highs in the teens. i'm happy i have a shop but it's really expensive to heat it with the industrial kerosene jet engine i bought.
oh, and i'm going to get a kill switch for my battery.
I'm also going to route my exhaust thru the roof instead for more downforce.
Got the bumper, crash bar, and grill off after dinner tonight. hope to get the radiator out, the oil cooler out, and the turbo out this weekend so i can install the cossie housing. weather looks to be crap tho - clear, but highs in the teens. i'm happy i have a shop but it's really expensive to heat it with the industrial kerosene jet engine i bought.
oh, and i'm going to get a kill switch for my battery.
-Ray
1985 Ford F150 - Tow Missile
1985 Merkur XR4Ti -#141 CP "Miss Daisy"
2005 Subaru LGT
http://www.cartct.com
1985 Ford F150 - Tow Missile
1985 Merkur XR4Ti -#141 CP "Miss Daisy"
2005 Subaru LGT
http://www.cartct.com
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BeefFajitas
- Level 6

- Posts: 886
- Joined: Mon Jan 12, 2004 2:15 pm
- Location: MA
Not sure. I re-did my gauges and rewired the alt light/feed as per the wiring diagram. The light bulb (a resistor itself) is in parallel to a resistor. I'm not sure what would happen if you bypassed all that. It might short out somewhere. The light bulb gets lit up because one side goes to ground. Remove the resistor and you've got a short.
How old is your alt? It may just be on its way out. Maybe. Sort of. ???
I usually have to give mine a little rev to kick it on (otherwise the car runs like crap), but I don't remember having to get it above 2400 rpm. That seems a little excessive. That was even before the UD pulley too.
How old is your alt? It may just be on its way out. Maybe. Sort of. ???
I usually have to give mine a little rev to kick it on (otherwise the car runs like crap), but I don't remember having to get it above 2400 rpm. That seems a little excessive. That was even before the UD pulley too.
-Nate
'85 Merk. Back together. Only thing stock is the head and block.
'85 Merk. Back together. Only thing stock is the head and block.
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DPDISXR4Ti
- Site Admin
- Posts: 15622
- Joined: Wed Jan 08, 2003 11:40 pm
- Location: New York
Ray, if you're going to replace the VR, might just as well replace it with an adjustable one from these guys:
http://www.davebarton.com/AdjustableVoltage.html
Just check on whether you need a 28mm or 32mm - anyone know for sure?
http://www.davebarton.com/AdjustableVoltage.html
Just check on whether you need a 28mm or 32mm - anyone know for sure?
Brad
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Ray
- Level 7

- Posts: 4338
- Joined: Sun Oct 24, 2004 10:40 am
- Location: CT, USA
Well, i can just take mine and measure it?
-Ray
1985 Ford F150 - Tow Missile
1985 Merkur XR4Ti -#141 CP "Miss Daisy"
2005 Subaru LGT
http://www.cartct.com
1985 Ford F150 - Tow Missile
1985 Merkur XR4Ti -#141 CP "Miss Daisy"
2005 Subaru LGT
http://www.cartct.com
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Ray
- Level 7

- Posts: 4338
- Joined: Sun Oct 24, 2004 10:40 am
- Location: CT, USA
Joe came by this evening (we're gonna play darts now)
Last night got the bumper, crash beam, and grill out.
This evening, got the coolant drained, downpipe out, turbo out, and radiator out. started to pull the bolts for the turbo center section to turbine housing. What size bolts are those? looks like m8 x 1.25 but might be x 1.50? also, what length?
Need some suggestions for the extra two coolant lines on the manual stock radiator. dont really WANT to drill and thread fittings into my brandy new radiator, but i might have to to ease the process.
Last night got the bumper, crash beam, and grill out.
This evening, got the coolant drained, downpipe out, turbo out, and radiator out. started to pull the bolts for the turbo center section to turbine housing. What size bolts are those? looks like m8 x 1.25 but might be x 1.50? also, what length?
Need some suggestions for the extra two coolant lines on the manual stock radiator. dont really WANT to drill and thread fittings into my brandy new radiator, but i might have to to ease the process.
-Ray
1985 Ford F150 - Tow Missile
1985 Merkur XR4Ti -#141 CP "Miss Daisy"
2005 Subaru LGT
http://www.cartct.com
1985 Ford F150 - Tow Missile
1985 Merkur XR4Ti -#141 CP "Miss Daisy"
2005 Subaru LGT
http://www.cartct.com
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merkurdriver
- Level 8
- Posts: 6432
- Joined: Tue Jan 21, 2003 4:29 pm
- Location: Northeast Ohio
Copy the automatic XR hose set-up. Get the "Y hose" from the auto and you'll be set. Factory fit/finish. Simplified cooling system, and no drilling / tapping a brand new part.demonfire wrote:
Need some suggestions for the extra two coolant lines on the manual stock radiator. dont really WANT to drill and thread fittings into my brandy new radiator, but i might have to to ease the process.
Check out the FAQ's here:
http://merkur.50megs.com/photo2_2.html
BAT has the best price on the "Y hose" BRAND NEW, for a used one ask blugg as I am all out of them here at the moment.
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DSPXR4ti
- Level 7

- Posts: 1473
- Joined: Mon Mar 20, 2006 2:26 pm
- Location: San Jose, Calif.
Wait a minute! did the stock automatic XR come with a different hose set up? which hoses can I eliminate? and are there any pic's?merkurdriver wrote:Copy the automatic XR hose set-up. Get the "Y hose" from the auto and you'll be set. Factory fit/finish. Simplified cooling system, and no drilling / tapping a brand new part.demonfire wrote:
Need some suggestions for the extra two coolant lines on the manual stock radiator. dont really WANT to drill and thread fittings into my brandy new radiator, but i might have to to ease the process.
Check out the FAQ's here:
http://merkur.50megs.com/photo2_2.html
BAT has the best price on the "Y hose" BRAND NEW, for a used one ask blugg as I am all out of them here at the moment.
Ben
85 DSP XR4ti, 2009 Solo 2 National Champion, burns muffler, 3in exhaust, Mc2 Full suspension, 325 hps & 328tqr, GMR Intake, Wilwood brakes, Eaton LSD, stand alone ECU. Working on being SM National Champion.
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merkurdriver
- Level 8
- Posts: 6432
- Joined: Tue Jan 21, 2003 4:29 pm
- Location: Northeast Ohio
