had about 15 people over last night to "break in" the new bar i built. total damage was about 30 beers of multiple varieties, half a handle of gin, half a handle of bourbon, and a touch of many other things.
i "went shopping" friday night
and today, i decided to go back and do a little more work on the car... which progressed into about 6 or so hours.
heh.
so yesterday joe (hEaT) came by while i was still taping foam board and i mentioned i wanted to pull the heater core. He had never done one so why not start on a car with 1. no carpet and 2. not much in the way already. so he pulled that out for me (thanks joe) and we got to work on figuring out what to do. i decided to not put the lower dash back in as it saves a few more pounds, but i needed a solution for my fan switch as i used the "ac" switch to turn my fans on. joe had a good idea: use the heated seat switch. so we did. checked both with a meter and one showed 1.1 ohms while closed - the other 0.2 ohms. we used the 0.2
exactoknife off the black, and get some touch up paint and meter some wires and run a ground to the switch - now the green light illuminates and the switch illuminates when the fan is on. the fan is also now wired using the factory connector (aftermarket fan) - all wires were fully sheathed in heat shrink although i didn't get a pic of that. wiring is still my number one passion for 'car stuff' and i tend to take forever making sure everything is just so. obviously below, is "during" so the wiring (oem mess) will be cleaned up.
below - pics. who reads text anymore anyway?
heater core removed. lower dash removed.
"new" fan switch wired.
from the back of the factory HVAC switch - yes i cut the harness. i also trimmed out wires i dont need (fan speed selector, etc)
looks like hell but i swear, using a toothpick to paint frickin' sucks. i'll razor edge it better when it's not 30 degrees out (although now the shop is heated so it was about 50 in there - i just didn't want to spend too much time on that today. heh.)
no flash, and therefore blurry, but shows the switch is illuminated. (just need to ground the ground pin for this to work)
figured i'd need something to mount my wideband, turbo timer, and green fan light. also, wanted to place the not yet purchased but on the list battery kill switch. quick trip to the hardware store for some 0.025" aluminum sheet and ...
i used cardboard for mockup. took a bit longer to make this simple plate than i figured, but i like it.
oil cooler now successfuly mounted above radiator with some thin flat stock that is reinforced welded where needed (painted semi-flat black)
new fan - the oil cooler sits back from the radiator so the lines clear...
intercooler, oil cooler, radiator. grill mocked up to make sure everything will get good flow.
sam's (smoke3006) old car, the blood monkey, now is owned by a friend of mine who is a great autoXr, and will be competing in my class this year. so, it's time to get that car ready too. yes, i'm helping my competitor make his car faster. and yes, i'm actually going to be hopefully helping the mustang guy with his car in my shop as well. we're all CP - why not? we're all friends.
Okay, so the battery in this car is in the hatch. there was a kill switch and breaker installed. i didn't like where things were, as the kill switch was by the battery, and the breaker was under the hood. being a car audio guy, i need the breaker or fuse within 12" of the battery to protect the wire as the switch wont, and the switch should be easily accessible inside the car for obvious reasons. so, trim out some wire, move some stuff, use the old plate from my car that mounted the turbo timer, and
these were later secured under the dash
yes, it's grommeted.
mmmm pretty
i like having more than one merkur in my shop.
